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Everything posted by scotty nm35
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The housing flows most exhaust into the turbine and less through the wastegate port, more to do with angles and gas speed than the size of the wastegate hole.
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If you go to Supergas you can knock the price down over 50% by just speaking to the sales manager. I got offered even cheaper prices from Migwell.
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I agree, hard pipes are a better idea but welding a bend to the turbo makes it almost impossible to sell. Straight joiners on a cast alloy 90 may be a little better but it will limit your power as the internal diameter is much smaller. I was running 40psi through mine, 2 inches from the maifold. Perhaps yours is just too close, can you spin the housing a little? There are some great heat insulating and heat reflection products out there these days, no need to change the setup imo.
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Same dyno, same response from the tuner. He said the compressor is maxed, I said 'how can it be maxed if I am running 80kw more.' Unfortunately it is hard to pinpoint exactly what is restricting flow as everything is restricting flow to some extent. With a large enough turbo you can push through some of these restrictions. (as the turbo is the main restriction in all turbo setups.) Strangling the engine with a small rear is not a good way to get power or response. If you want a more responsive turbo, go for smaller lighter wheels like a gtx28 or SS1pu. It will probably still get close to 300kw if all the restrictions are sorted.
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Trent was the one tuning it. You sure it wasn't the intake sucking shut?
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If there is no engine light, the consult won't show any engine codes, unless you want to diag the gearbox?
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I do, but why bother with a pod enclosure? I saw a stock GTR airbox flowing 500kw the other day, the GTST one can't be far off as it uses the same panel filter...
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It might be worth trying another one, to see if it goes away... Now that the plugs are good.
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I understand what you mean Allan, but I didn't remove the restrictor, I didn't even take the red plug out untill the 4an line was installed. Unless it came that way from Precision...
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Stao does large port wastegates like that, but his are machined. I can't see how the puck would seal properly in that pic... Can you get the flange? You wouldn't want to have to make that one... You will need a heavy duty actuator which adds to the cost. External gates offer much more flexibility with boost settings, and controller setups. They aren't just for high boost applications, although you would need to go external to control boost well at 25+psi imo. If you ever go e85 you will be kicking yourself if you didn't think about it at least.
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Are you both on the new AFM's?
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I just haven't seen a good result from many ATP housing variations, and they look like they were cast in a kindergarten compared to my Chinese knockoff Tial. They have a good range of housings though. My mates Subaru specific ATP GTX3071 housing was missing a fair chunk of power compared to my old setup. Every time I hear about ATP it is generally someone complaining about low outputs and poor quality, which is why I now make my own.
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It won't flow as well as mine, but it really depends how much boost and timing you plan to run as to how much exhaust gas needs to be bypassed around the turbo.
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I have used the Tial housings, and the Chinese knockoff Tial housings, both were great but would require an external gate to be welded to the housing.
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Gt30Iw Fitting Hardware , Whats Good/bad/ugly ?
scotty nm35 replied to discopotato03's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I just made mine, my little plasma cutter wouldn't work on such thick material so I just drilled lots of holes, punched the centre out and filed it. 10mm would be a lot easier than 20mm though. -
I have no problems running my Walbro 255's at 70-80psi. As long as you buy original Walbro's they are fine, and last longer than DW pumps in Ethanol, that's for sure. Best bet is the E85 460L Walbro for $200, or the petrol version for around $150. 044's are dinosaur pumps, loud and obnoxious. They also don't like ethanol.
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That and ATP housings are crap.
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I always run OEM gaskets too, the aftermarket ones are crap.
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Most other performance cars out there run only one. I can't see it being an issue. Make up a plate and bolt it on to test it, that way you can change back if you need to.
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I agree, but fiddling with it didn't seem to help. Perhaps the sensor or wiring was damaged somehow?
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Did you remove the restrictor in the fluid entry hole before fitting? Simply changing the lines won't fix the issue.
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No-one would stock it, as they would have only ever sold one... To you... I can make you anything.
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You must have missed my 4g63, he is filing the ring gaps atm.