scotty nm35

I'm working on the GIO Gibson 32 next weekend at Sandown, I was hoping to get underneath with the camera... Quite extreme under there, as it was setup for the Sandown 500 I think. Coolers on everything. Could give you some good ideas...

I have almost the opposite opinion, more boost, 11:1afr and keep the timing on the lower side of MBT for best longevity, especially at the point the torque hits hard. E85 knocks just like petrol but at a much higher boost. Definitely need knock ears on the block for WOT tuning...

600hp is nothing these days on ethanol, but I assume you will be on the pootrol?

Those beams are not strong enough to jack or put stands under, they will crush and make your car unroadworthy. Always use the sill jack points or the crossmember under the engine.

Look inside the muffler. No really, it is mandated by law to be under the steering wheel somewhere.

Just clean it up, the head ports are nowhere near as bad as the stock exhaust manifold, and I have seen 430kw through it. Remember, keeping the gas speed as high as possible is the goal for response, until you max out the port flow and limit the top end. The turbo nozzle is by far the smallest exhaust restriction, all 6 ports add up to probably 10 times the area of the nozzle.

Where is the line drawn for working on the electrical system? I realise you need to be a specialist electrical mechanic to work on these electric cars legally, how much can you actually do yourself?

Gain? They will take more energy to turn over in the engine, how much gain do you really expect from 1mm larger valves and dual springs?

The old VL injectors had rubber hose on the feed, not sure about the R31 injectors but the VL ones looked like a pain to change without the common fuel rail. It's not something you want to get wrong...

Jasma is not a brand, is your exhaust 3 inch with no restrictions and highflow or 'single cell' cat? Every car has injectors, but how much do they flow? You will need to find out more information about the mods you have, like the fuel pump for example. 300kw is a lot of power and if anything goes wrong at that power it only takes seconds for it all to go pear shaped.

I'm interested to see how they added the VQ35 hydraulic cam actuator to the front of the camshaft and got it all to work. My VQ25 runs an electric clutch CV arrangement instead, which may be easier to retrofit as it doesn't need the hydraulic lines. I always wondered why HKS went the external oil feed path... If you could post pics in a Vcam thread I would appreciate it. Should be a great addition, but I hope you have the valve clearance. Those actuators can advance 50 degrees. Who will be tuning it?

Vcam should help with around 500 revs better response, and 40-50 kw midrange. Do you have any pictures of the kit being installed by any chance?

These twins would be a ball tearer in the factory compressor housings with Tial rears and external gates welded off the housing, hanging underneath the turbo's. Do it Fatz.

Some sodium filled unobtanium no doubt.

Ewww. Bendix. Try and chamfer the leading and trailing edges of the pad, it can help if they aren't cut already. Do you have the stainless backing plates in place? The other option is some silicone crap painted on the back of the pad, any brake joint should be able to supply anti squeal paste.

Obviously inconel or titanium valves will handle sustained high temps better than the stock valves, it would really depend what fuel, power and revs you wanted to run, and if you were looking to track it. Things start getting very expensive heading down that road. I wonder if the Gibson motors ran the stock valves...

The GTX35 I fitted to a 33gtst stock manifold used a 25-30mm spacer, but it was external gate. Not sure the actuator would fit on an internal gate version.

Yep. I just fitted 3/4 length Xspurt 2000's in it's rail due to the 1000's blocking with that black gunk. I also fitted a 10 micron paper element filter to trap any further crap in the fuel. It's not the first ethanol car to show these blockages, although mine has been fine.

I would assume no-one has ever ported the head and then re-tuned without doing other mods at the same time.

Ooo, purdy.

Or two thinner ones and 3 gaskets, or simply weld a few 10mm flanges together.

In the stock -5 housings they will surge apparently. My GTX 3076 surges loudly at part throttle, as the boost comes on. Sounds cool. Built cammed 2.6 33 gtr, stock airbox, stock cooler, intakes and piping, stock bov's (probably leaking boost.) twin 3 inch exhaust with split dumps (why split? The wastegates should be welded shut imo. 3 inch dumps ftw ) Not sure on the turbo chra, other than GTX in -5's.

Lighter valve train for sustained high revs.

I am under the impression it wouldn't be beneficial to have larger valves at all, as the port is still the same size at the seat. It should only be necessary if the seat has been cut back too far. It's also a good way to blow $1000 if you include the Ti retainers... The Evo head cost me $500 to reco and face, I supplied the valve seals and Tomei springs, they supplied the exhaust valves.

It's usually a little black 2 wire sensor in front of the radiator.