scotty nm35

Not sure on the specs on your premium fuels where you live, but I would be surprised if it doesn't have ethanol added at certain times of the year. Just making you aware, would be a shame to ruin another pump in a few months because you cheaped out on a few bucks to buy the ethanol compatible version.

Meh. 26's are so overrated and expensive. Shove a VQ25det or VQ35 in there, and keep the AWD for dual axle skids, then I will be impressed by your drift pig.

The 400 is a good cheap pump, just don't run any ethanol through it. I would even be worried with e10 98.

I'm thinking Lee has an error code he wants cleared?

Yes, or get it scanned.

Holden mate, I doubt they will need to hang on to their stock for much longer, and they aren't using them anymore.

Just needs the blinker fluid topped up Hugh.

Same old story, buying from a trusted source or playing the ebay gamble to save yourself a 50. Not worth importing one from the US at the moment, so unless there is someone with old local stock I wouldn't bother. I know a manufacturer with plenty of stock locally, they don't use them anymore.

I bought a Haltech one for the evo, just so I know it plugs straight in with no issues, but I am in the market for one to put in the Stagea, heading down the Link Fury path at this stage with flex. Anything I find in the US is crazy expensive with shipping since the dollar is shite. I might just buy the Link one.

The stock wiring is definitely not up to the task of running a single 460L. I have seen them draw over 25 amps at full load. A 255 Walbro perhaps.

Ask Greg, his works unbelievably well. If only I knew for sure it could run the RE5.

They are still working 20 years on, and do a very good job of controlling the fuel pressure. Millions of oem cars can't be wrong.

You mean an upgraded TCU software? Only the 3.5 has slightly different mapping, but their ecu is in the sump of the gearbox. I looked into fitting a PCS transmission controller a few years back, but it's a lot of work.

Mr Nissan? Can't say I have ever tried, I hate wobbly wheels with a passion. Ditch it and put a non hicas subframe in is my advice.

Only when you have a restriction in the return, or if your chinese reg isn't up to the task. I don't have an issue with my SX reg and 6an teflon braided return...

Octane booster isn't the answer... Ever. Old fuel can cause all sorts of issues, flush the old crap out on the dyno and replace it with fresh. If you still have an issue tuning I would get your injectors checked.

Never had an issue with the Skylines, only the s15 had a restrictor in the return hose off the reg. The Evo had a small return line in the tank.

How do you explain one injector only out of 6 having black gunk on it? How does your explanation of hot fuel causing gunk to come out of suspension explain why the injector tips build up, and not the internal filter? My fuel system has been hot, damn hot many times at the track, and on the dyno, I have never had an issue other than having to re-prime the fuel system to start. Never any rust either. I guess the Hydroscopic nature of the fuel doesn't matter at all seeing it's only in the tank for a month or two in my case, in fact it makes sure there is no water in the tank at all. Not having a go, but all these misconceptions aren't helping unless you have some kind of proof, as evidence I have seen first hand rules them all out.

Yep, I was measuring the stock VQ25det head bolts, so it's the thread into the block. I can't remember the nm figures, but 76nm stock and 96nm for the L19's is stuck in my head for some reason, unless it was actually ft/lb figures.

What car Sonicz? The only cars I have had an issue with so far are the Evo's and S15's as there are restrictions in the return. Anything smaller than 4mm or so will bump the pressure up too much.

Engine only Alex, or does it read the attessa and box etc?

Seems to just relate to a stuffed coil, no idea why you would suspect the crank sensor. This is why fault finding without the consult is hit and miss sometimes. Try measuring the primary coil resistance, the ecu is seeing one is shorting or open circuit.

The VQ bolt is 120mm from under the washer to the tip of the thread, so the length would be perfect, but it has an M11 x 1.25 pitch, so if the RB25/30 is 1.5mm pitch that won't work unfortunately.

Agreed, mine works well, but understand you are cutting the main CAN communication lines to install it.

Actually, these aren't 34 gtt turbo's, I have recently diagnosed a customers car that was running 22psi for the last few years on a stock turbo, the turbo is still working fine. Don't get these ceramic turbo's mixed up with older RB ones, they are much more hardy. The reduction in exhaust temps with an unrestricted dump is much more important than keeping the shaft speed lower. It's the rear bearing that fails on these mainly, which takes all the turbine blades off the hub.