scotty nm35

If only you knew... Anything... All bow to the king of all Stageas, the Ass raped cousin, RS260. It was just a poor RS4 until Autech ripped it's heart out and shoved the 2.6 tractor motor in for some strange reason. They should have stuck a VQ30det in there for real powerz. Just my opinion though...

It is climate control, it will blow hot air until the interior temp is at the desired setting. If it doesn't turn down once it gets to the set temp, sounds like the in dash temp sensor is borked. 18 is cold air only.

It proves nothing, other than you like to thrash cars down a straight road. Poor 260... I feel sorry for it.

But who wants a 4k stally when driving the kids to school? That's my point, why set up a car for drags when they are primarily used for driving on the road.

Unproven on the 1/4? Drags are for kiddies, as it all comes down to the launch, not any skilz... Airport runs would show a different result you would have to agree. Come back to us when you have suspension that doesn't bottom out when you dump the clutch, and can make it around a track in a decent time.

Anti seize works well, but try to stay away from Denso plugs or anything with stainless threads, they gall up threads even when installed correctly. You can die grind the easy-out with a carbide burr, but it's a head off job. Can you borrow some tools and diy?

Most of the cars I see are lowered and there is no way I could get to the crossmember. I need to jack most up just to get the hoist pads under it, and they are only 100mm off the ground. Fiberglass side skirts really shit me.

The M35 stagea is two ton with similar strength sills, I doubt a skyline would crush the sill if the load was evenly balanced. (unless it was already damaged) None I have had on the hoist have ever crushed anyway. You obviously need to be careful though, centering the load on the pad. If you are worried, sit a length of wood between the pad and along the sill spreading the load over a greater area. How do you think people lift up the car with a trolley jack?

The pads on my hoist are flat, no issues here, and I have a different car on the hoist every other day. Slart hoist..

GM use a continental sensor, which is available for around $60-70 delivered if you search around in the US.

I understand the fanboi aspect, but you really think the 26 is so much better? Why? Smaller capacity, oil supply issues, pita throttle setup. I would have shoved a neo head on the 30, or just left it two valve. I have a customer's car about to go on the dyno, VL with built rb30, it should hit 500kw with good response from the Precision 6766. I don't personally think the (non VCT) 26 is an upgrade over the 30. Unless you can shove the HKS Vcam on it...

They also have plastic cage bearings afaik, where as the GTX has steel cage. Hence the reason the old diesel designed GT35's have a higher failure rate. It's one of the Garrett turbos I wouldn't recommend. Go with the GTX3076 imo for a similar power figure and quicker spool.

What was wrong with the rb30? The 26 is nothing special as far as engines go...

It depends on pump flow and pressure. I run two 6an feed lines, one per rail, and one 6an return. This isn't an issue for me as the twin Walbro 255's don't flow a huge amount of fuel. With a larger pump pressure would rise, (at idle mainly, as the injectors aren't using much fuel.) A way around this is to reduce the power to the pump at low demand using a pwm output controller. If you can slow the pumps down enough that the return doesn't max out, and the pressure is stable, and tune it into the map somehow you will be able to run a massive pump off a small return. I have a 1500hp Fuel lab to fit into my setup for this very reason, they have a built in PWM controller which can be speed controlled by any ecu.

Anti vibration weight. Not that critical, I wouldn't bother replacing it personally. Did you notice any change in NVH or vibration?

It's still a highflow Adam, the housings need to be machined either way, even for the smallest wheel options he has. The M35 stock ecu can handle most turbo upgrades, but the larger ones are simply too laggy on the factory map. Only go for the more expensive SS2 billet option if you plan to run an Emanage Ultimate or similar.

Probably the fuel reg vac line, they pop off constantly. I would be trying to cable tie the hoses both ends so it doesn't happen again. Can you hear a vac leak at idle?

Because the GTR bov's don't have the 4mm bleeder hole I think. Anyway, it isn't hard to tap an M5 thread into the hole and grub screw it for the same effect. The stock bov will work fine at up over 300kw with it blocked...

The rear narrowbands should be cycling like that. You are taking it back there?

Are you checking the pressure with the vac line connected to the reg?

Change the diff when it blows, or just weld the spider gears.

I melted a set of iridium plugs a while back, they were 3mm gap at least and my car only just started misfiring in the top end at 30psi. VQ coils are just better designed I think, not necessarily higher voltage but less chance of the spark jumping to earth as the rocker cover is plastic, there is nowhere for the spark to earth other than the plug gap. There is no reason a little ingenuity couldn't get RB coils jumping a similar gap...

Why the Japanese exhaust part love? You know 3.5 inch is pretty close. Is there a flange on the Midori?

For $200 you really can't go past the e85 Walbro. They are nearly silent when installed correctly and flow massive amounts of fuel. The petrol version is only $150 or so, but why limit yourself to dino fuel...

I swear, tuners should supaglue the adjuster on the reg after it's tuned...