scotty nm35

So do Walbro 255's.

I know what it is, and how it would work. I just don't think anyone would go to the trouble for you, other than myself. You run both a straight 3.5 inch pipe with the Ecv, and bypass the Ecv with another smaller but quiet muffler. When open, both pipes flow exhaust, when closed only the muffler does, (and perhaps the little hole in the Ecv) The muffler can be remotely mounted anywhere. If the cops look under the car they will see a muffler and pipe.

It's better than a Varex if you install it as I stated in my first reply...

It's an extensive list Rolls, it could be so many parts causing power to drop. I would start with checking the cat isn't blocked, and pressure testing the intake for leaks. Work your way through the free diagnosis and only replace parts once you know they are faulty, or it will cost you plenty. Check the condition of the plugs too. One thing that does come to mind, the wastegate may need some more preload, usually 5mm is perfect. You can simply stick a few washers under the actuator.

Bit hard to tell ground clearance when it's up on stands.

No, I didn't measure it up, but I have fitted a few 100mm (4 inch thick) mufflers to 33's and 34's recently. Tucked up as close as I could go it was very low still, 50mm lower again would hit on speed humps and driveways, as it is in between the axles. Like I said, if your car is 4wd spec it will fit, but you will have to be careful not to rip it off.

He can't do AFR printouts, the 0-5v input for the wideband isn't working and it would cost $1000's to get the repair tech out. The customer is allowed to watch the AFR display while tuning is going on of course, if they don't have any faith. (If that's the case they should be running their own wideband anyway.) If you were implying he runs the tunes lean to get more power or that the dyno power figures are massively inflated you are mistaken obviously. I have had some unbelievable tunes from him on RE's dyno, and now his own Dynamic Dyno, smart bloke when it comes to tuning anything. I'm sure you are in good hands Leroy. Bullshit from the customer? It was Autobarn mate...

Wastegate flapping in the wind?

It won't fit, not unless you are 4wd spec. You could always make a similar setup external to the muffler, using an exhaust cutout switch and 2 inch OEM style muffler in parallel. You can just stick the Varex on the back, and dump the exhaust tip so no-one can look up the pipe. Or you could just shove a decent mid muffler and have a quiet system with excellent flow.

PM'd.

Stock dump? I have only seen this happen with split dumps. If the engine is going into rich and retard, the extra fuel dumping and timing backed out will help cause the overboost.

Exactly Dale, my idea was to make a cross brace in the back, from both rear seatbelt mounts to the floor on the other side, but I would loose too much cartage room.

It would take an hour or two to drain the oil, drop the sump, and drill the 3 banjo bolts. The worst case would be drilling them too large and pushing oil out the seals around the turbo shaft, in which case you need to source a standard banjo bolt again. There is no way to tell the bearing condition from inspection, you can only tell from the noise. (a ball bearing shouldn't make those noises.) When the bearing wears enough the turbine or compressor wheel will contact the housing and make a more pronounced grinding noise, the wheel will be damaged beyond repair not long after.

Well worth reading about the benefits, remember it is re-usable and doesn't need to be replaced every year or two afaik. The system won't pressurise either, as there is very little expansion, so hoses will last longer. The lack of cavitation in the water pump would be very useful at 8000 revs too. I agree it is expensive though.

I have an M35 here atm with a turbo failure, it was driven home to Melbourne from Bathurst with no issues (other than being gutless.) Sometimes though, the shaft snaps further back into the turbo, and the oil seal dumps most of your sump into the exhaust. Luck of the draw. Most times you could drive it home at least.

I would say you didn't clean the oil off the compressor housing or rotating assembly when you used the silicone, or it wasn't high heat rated. It should have sealed it up tight. The OEM compressor housings sometimes have a metal gasket between them, that would be your best bet.

http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/

No-one in particular yet, this mob seem to have it worked out though. http://www.evanscoolants.com.au/

How much air and at what pressure were you testing? Are you saying where the 6 bolts around the edge of the compressor housing are?

30 psi, 40 on auto gear shift due to the soft cut limiter. I can't believe the engine is still together pushing this 2 ton whale around the track. One of the drawbacks of alloy blocks with floating bores, the heat is conducted very well into the coolant, and there is no thermal mass of cast iron to sink the heat into. I am measuring the water temp at the outlet of the head, most would want to know if the radiator is keeping up so place the sensor in the inlet for the engine, but the factory VQ sender is on the outlet. At least I know the maximum temp the coolant is getting to, and that the engine can handle it. (just the coolant can't.) If you are losing the heater, you most probably have an airlock from steam or combustion. I have redesigned my cooling system to get around that issue and allow the coolant/steam to flow better. I should have just ordered that waterless racing coolant lookin back.

Too busy playing pretend cars Aayron?

A little heat a large flat blade screwdriver and a shifter should have most of it bent back, depending how it has folded, but it will have limited strength afterward I find they crush when most of the car's weight is put on to one point. That's why a trolley jack on the front point works fine, as do hoists when balanced properly.

Motul do one too, I have been using it for a while now with very little coolant added to tank water. It works well enough but I am still having overheating issues at the track. I have been researching waterless coolants, there are some very interesting no boil properties in those fluids, with over 200c boiling points. That should stop the flash boiling I get around the bore and combustion chamber on prolonged high boost. (140+ water temp at the outlet of the head, more at the bore) You need to flush all the water from your system first with a cleaner, then pour the reusable fluid in. They are worth a look if you want peace of mind.

Hope to see it there Rob, my Yellow evo is there for a stroker build. Love Cihan's tuning and the way he explains any issues he's having with the car, I always leave happy... Well other than that one time I lifted the head during a run.

As far as I know the rear o2 sensors are only feedback to the ecu on cat condition, the front pair will do the actual AF signal input. Being a V36 it has proper wideband sensors, so whilst expensive they should read the same on both banks fairly accurately. If Nissan can't see any issues they should be fine. I am fairly confident the ecu disregards the o2 signal until the car is up to operating temp anyway. I doubt it's the issue, I have always believed it to be the crank sensor, as it is when taking off. I would say the flywheel pickup is right on the sensor's edge. Drop the crank sensor out and have a look if it's dirty at least. 2 minute job, and you are welcome to call me if you need help doing it. Simple job if you have a jack and stands.