scotty nm35

Lol. Told you so. Been there tried that.

You can run an external trans cooler instead, but then the box will take ages to warm up, which is the main reason they are placed in the radiator in the first place. I would be selling that radiator and buying an auto one with the cooler in the bottom, then run an external cooler before the radiator cooler.

About 40-50kw on average.

Challenge accepted. This aint no RB mate.

I just saw 97 25x and thought C34. Shouldn't drop back to 8 psi then...

At 13psi it may well play up soon, plus you could be hitting rich and retard, drop the boost to 10psi and see if it runs better... Drop the intercooler and clean it out with kero or similar, then pressure test the intake as you reassemble it.

I have an air Nut insert tool and also a manual one. I use the hand one for alloy and the air for stainless. Bloody handy tools. That electric one looks good, but not at that price.

Crappy, really? Compared to an LS2? Ok...

Glad you put that 3 inch cooler piping, talk about overkill. You can make an easy 300kw on 2.25 inch piping. Stop slapping parts on and read, there is so much information here you should be able to work out what you need, then see if you can go for a spin in a few members cars to get a feel for the response. I am guessing the GT35 will be a little too laggy if you plan to drive it daily.

Looks great. You may have boost control issues when the screamer fills with snow though...

If you are stopped there is no movement, other than the clutch pack engaging. I think you need to get it up on a jack and stands or a hoist and listen for the noise from underneath.

^^ Nearly as much as a Commodore at a guess.

Bang for buck, Unitig AC/DC 200 amp. You will need to buy a foot pedal for it though, and 15A GPO. I have used one daily for about 5 years, good unit. Only once did it let me down, a circuit board blew out, but the replacement part was on the shelf in Sydney. I just can't justify buying a Miller for 5k when this one does a similar job for 1/4 the price.

There is a restrictor fitted to the top oil feed when you buy the turbo. Any size oil line should work fine, but I would add a filter to be sure there are no blockages.

FYP. I agree they are impressive turbo's with the numbers to back them up, but the internal gate version is too long to fit into half the cars I work on. The external gate versions are looking better each day.

I asked the guy that sold us the turbo, he said 3 weeks from the US, but not to bother as the Precision Vband quality was poor. I modified a standard ebay 3 inch stainless Vband flange, machining the V smaller and opening up the inside to around 3.25 inch. It works perfectly and seals tight using the aftermarket 3 inch clamp. As he will be running 35+ psi on a 40mm turbosmart gate, I suggested to use the taller HP cap kit with 35psi spring. There are two kits on their way down from Turbosmart as we speak, the other kit is for me. Let you guys know how well they work.

Want me to rip a cluster apart and find the cricket? I am sure it wouldn't be hard to remove...

Or you can shove a stretched spring inside the hose, just make sure it can't get sucked into the pump.

No idea, I can't see it being drive train related if you are stationary...

I have some fabrication this week, fitting a 6766 onto a built single cam RB30. Nice looking unit and should flow some air as he is planning to run 35+psi. One thing, these turbo's don't come with rear flanges, and are not a standard 3 inch Vband size, any idea where I can find a Vband for the 4 inch dump at short notice? I really don't want to make one on the lathe, but I will have to if they aren't available locally. Why no flange Precision?

The 14.2mm hose should work nicely.

Where are you Lakes? You may need a local member to have a look at it I think.

That is a porn rear housing right there. Is the temp probe port tapped from factory? Or is it just a cast section that's designed for the job... I like the trumpet outlet, very nice. It would flow much better than the garrett/Tial single angle outlets I am sure.

625+ is a new ARP high tensile stainless, of similar tensile strength to the older L19's but with less corrosion issues. Both are far better than the standard ARP2000 steel studs/bolts, but cost 3 times the price too.

How did the intake install go Simon, is it in yet?