scotty nm35

I have the BS-7DS, it is a very capable bandsaw with a decent blade fitted (as Blackrex mentioned) and running coolant. http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B008A I use it to cut anything. Mufflers fit in it, I can make 2 x 45 bends out of a 90 which the Brobo can't do. (the motor hits the pipe.) It should easily cut the 6 inch alloy pipe I need for the GTX45 intake I am fabricating next.

Scared of a little die grinding Scott?

Not even a location? We may need some more information. Do you have the filter spacer for the oil pressure sender?

It's still smaller than stock by 1.6%, that won't be helping... The lowest part of the car is the front subframe, not something you want to hit with something hard...

What profile tyres did you get?

Last I heard Lumleys wouldn't touch the M35, not special enough or something. I am insured with Shannons, around 1k and no lockup living quarters. Out in the rain with no farks given. They were fine with it.

The manifold studs are the hard ones to get to, but it would be a good idea to change them all while it's apart, unless you enjoy ripping turbo's off as much as I do.

I can't help from here, but you need to get one out and check the manufacturers part number, see if it's a generic Bosch sensor. Most widebands are. They are most definitely available cheaper aftermarket, it just depends if they are sold with the correct plug on the end. You could always crimp your plug to it though...

I have a spare pair I was keeping for this very reason...

Thanks Dale.

The old stock coil is most probably fine, I have never had an issue other than dirty boots causing arcing. Thanks for the update Daniel, I agree, stick to the stock coils.

I use the stock jacking points, don't use the chassis rail inboard of it, they are way too soft.

How bad are the cracks? A quick polish would have the foggy lenses looking brand new in no time. Grab a Glassylite kit off Ebay...

Yep, grab one from Nissan mate, they are only $2 or so.

And I never talked about the hardcut the AFM does... Just that it dumps fuel similar to Dunc's issue. If the AFM is seeing increased airflow due to a leak it will protect the engine The AFM can most certainly cut at lower voltage than that as it is just a variable, depending which cell of the map it's in, the revs at the time, and the AFM voltage. No misfire on our coils till well over 3mm spark gap at stock boost.

350z filter: 16400-2Y505 M35 filter: 16400-4M405 Both look identical, and both have 0.1mm larger outlet holes than the stock one I removed. I will suggest everyone replace the outlet Oring (P/N: 17049-4M400) when changing the filter,

The afm drops out timing and dumps fuel at well below the 'head goes through the windscreen'. Lets just agree to disagree, you two are surely more proficient at this. Dunc, pressure testing the intake is easy, just grab an old tyre valve and a lid or plumbing cap that fits nicely into the rubber pipe, then use a pump/compressor to fill the intake. (you could even do it at the servo) Just checking if the fittings are loose won't tell you if there is a split in a hose somewhere you can't see.

Yep, should work fine.

Can you pressure test the intake? Just make up a bung for the rubber pipe and shove 20psi into the front of the turbo, it will quickly tell you if and where any leaks are.

Argumentative kent. Why don't you help instead NA boy? Sounds like your logging software is faulty... There is a good reason the EMU needs a clamp at 4.7v for the 25det. Stick to logging the 3.5 with your Osirus crap.

Was the leak due to a new filter being fitted though? There is definitely a size difference between the old and new filter outlets. Not happy, I wasted two hours today frigging around with it.

I fitted a 350z fuel filter to Ironpaw's M35 today, and found the top hole is larger, the Oring wouldn't seal the pressure meaning the rail had no pressure, and the car wouldn't start. Seems the old fuel filter has a smaller hole, as it was fine when we stuck it back in. I have heard of this Oring leaking before and needing a new Oring to be fitted, I wonder if that was the same issue... The part no. I used was: 16400-2Y505 (Strainer assy.) but Jethro suggested there may be two different part numbers. Any more information on this before I shove it up the arze of the Nissan parts guy?

This is the reason I pre-install the filter in the adapter and solder the pins to make up the plug adapters on the kits I sell. It keeps my customers from having any of these difficulties. The filter drops into the adapter from the top, then tap it down with a plastic hammer. Don't cut the old plugs off unless they are damaged. Just use plug adaptors.

Same, speed cut is taken care of by the SLD, everything else is down to the tuner and how much effort they want to put in. Personally I would prefer to support Adaptronic if they can sort out the teething problems, but I suspect I will be installing the Haltech platinum pro for the 350z once the manual box goes in.

Stock afm cut is much lower, around 4.7v the engine start backing out timing etc. Nismo ecu's will be different obviously. It definitely sounds like a boost leak somewhere...