scotty nm35

Just leave it alone for now imo, at least until you have some method of tuning the car. Then it should be an asset, and one less mod to buy.

FYP.

Should be fine if the oil supply is sufficient.

Friction saws aren't generally recommended for alloy, as it can bind to the disk and throw it out of balance. You could cut alloy easily with a bunnings hand mitre box and saw.

A larger sock won't do shit. As long as it is on the correct angle to sit flat on the bottom of the tank.

I would have said VL tututu master, just to be accurate.

12psi? Cmon mate, wind the wick up. lol.

I can't see how that small addition of back pressure would affect the oil seal in the rear of turbo, or anything else for that matter. Residual oil in the pipe is the most likely scenario. Let us know how it goes.

You can lever them out, although the r34 brembo's I kitted had alloy pistons so you will need to be careful with them. Don't split the halves, the small Oring seals are not in the kit and apparently the halves are not supposed to be unbolted. I think I have two kits so if anyone else needs one...

Oil in the mufflers. There is no way to clean it out, it needs to be burned off on the dyno. Or are you saying it burns oil with just the front pipe on the car?

As long as the sock is far enough down into the surge bowl you shouldn't have too many issues. It can be a good idea to hardwire the power feed through a fuse and relay though.

You have a good mechanic Russel, I would have never thought of looking there without a LOT of head scratching. Daniel, can you reset the ecu using the manual method? See if it gets better for a short while. If so, you could have a stuffed o2 sensor. Realistically it could be anything though.

If you put the wrong fluid in, then yes. Hopefully you haven't cooked the clutches, they don't like slipping. Matic J, or Nulon Synthetic trans fluid should be fine from my experience. Matic S is hard to come by. Look at getting a shift kit at a minimum if you plan to wind some power in. It might be a good idea to clean the filter in the sump before you drop the new fluid in too.

Nice one, thanks Daleo.

If you plan to run that sort of power then yes, they will drop in with minimum fuss.

I use all three, definitely the Brobo if you can find a cheap S/H one. I also use the $1200 H&F bandsaw for larger sized pipes, great for 4 inch or larger. I use the friction saw very rarely. It doesn't cut straight and the clean up time is horrendous. If you plan to use one, you will need to invest in a linisher to clean/flatten the cut.

I have a kit here for the fronts if you need one. Due to the age of them I would put the kit in anyway.

I have some s/h ones here that are quite useable, but get on Amayama and see if you can find the part, it may be cheap... Or not.

Just changing from ceramic wheels to steel will affect the tune, but as long as the wheels don't flow much more than the stock ones, you should be fine.

It depends how much you lean on the brakes, and how hot they get. I would assume you would need A1RM's at a minimum.

They are all a bit stuffed. They don't seem to leak though, no matter how bad they get. That pipe is designed to rust, sacrificial anode as part of the cooling system.

Insurance against what? Thicker oil won't magically save your bearings, it will certainly make it harder to get back to the sump though, RB's already have enough issues with this... You realise F1 use straight 10 weight oil? it is the film strength that protects bearings, not the viscosity... Stick with 10W40 synthetics and you will be fine, and drop the oil after each track day.

If you simply want a replacement turbo that will run fine on the stock ecu, let Stao know and he will make a stock sized highflow. The GCG units are generally GT3076 cores stuffed into factory housings. You said you don't want lag... Garrett BB cores don't like the high thrust loads usually found when stuffing such large cores into small housings. Hypergear generally use bush cores for this reason. Stao can highflow your core, or supply a complete turbo. Up to you. Ring him or message, and have a chat about your options.

You pulled the engine already? I would have cut open the oil filter and dropped the sump to see if there was bearing particles first. Keep us posted, I think the cas is different between the two engines, and a few other small differences.

I would be listening to your tuner before the Penrite rep.