scotty nm35

No Leroy, it's even worse.

To tell you the truth I don't do much logging, without the oscilloscope viewer it may not work well. For live data mine works perfectly. Are you using an XP lappy or emulating it? I got my software from England, off the guy who built the R35gtr fronted Stagea.

It's interesting how DW and other brands feel the need to rate injectors at higher pressure to make them sound larger than they are. My 1000's are actually 5000cc at 100 bar rail pressure.

The issue with the dump isn't just the cat, it's the 50c piece sized hole the exhaust needs to squeeze through before it. I wouldn't go talking about punching out cats online personally, it's a big fine.

If it was it would be sold already. Interesting that the emanage is still the most capable ecu on the market at the moment, and the only things it doesn't get rid of is the Speed and rev cut. If those worry you, then any way around them will be expensive.

Firstly, the infometer isn't just a toy, especially if you have the external sensors fitted. I have the oil pressure, oil temp and boost pressure sensors with my wideband in the analogue input. It displays everything I will ever need in one small display with peak hold and warnings. It has saved my arse more times than I can count, and is very useful for diagnosis. Matt, if you are having problems with your consult3 don't take it out on the unit, it's just the knock-off software most likely. I tried a few versions before I found one that worked well. It's a very powerful unit, much more useful than clearing codes.. If only you knew what it could actually do... Nissan should do a course.

Ethanol... /Thread. You should know this shit.

There is lucky to be half a mm of material on the clutches, one good slip and she's toast in most cases. I know as I have been there twice now, and building an auto isn't cheap. A shift kit is like increasing the tension on a manual clutch pressure plate springs, much less likely to slip, but when it does there is even more heat involved. A built box includes placing extra clutch plates (power clutch packs) to help increase the surface area, similar to installing a twin plate manual clutch.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on it? Generally that's the only way I can tell if the pump can't supply enough fuel to the rail, whatever the issue.

Just richen up the map and BAM, EPA legal 1000kw tune. Yeh right.

I think they call that blackmail.

Do you have the length Pete? I want to compare to the VQ bolts I have here. (Not that I really want to go cutting L19's down, but I will if I have to. )

I doubt anyone else would care much, as they would simply fit a second hand box or repair the one they had. I don't get what the issue is, it's a 10 year old car after all, and I am sure your box only has a small issue needing repair. You don't buy a rare JDM import and expect gearboxes to be in stock locally, or any parts for that matter.

On here? I doubt it...

Piss the additives off and run a stainless mesh filter. Proflow works great for me, but I would go Earls these days. Are you using drum or United/Caltex?

About $200 I think.

Here is the Xspurt data, should be similar to all EV14's of similar size, although it varies on fuel pressure sometimes I think. More pressure can make them slower to open.

Don't get mixed up, the consult port is the older setup for 34's and older. Our Stagea runs an obd2 plug, and needs consult 3.

There are many ways to run the relay wiring, but most of them seem to fail with these 460's in particular. The relays I use are Jaycar 70 amp, as the 30 amp ones don't last long. Even these 70 amp relays fail. I think it's just a lack of voltage to the coil, hence the contacts aren't pulling in well against the spring creating a high resistance joint. The higher current caused does the rest, blowing 30 amp fuses and melting plugs. Bypassing the resistors will bump the voltage up, but I also suggest the ssr as that diagram will work on any vehicle's pump wiring, no matter how it's setup, and would be easy to fit without modifying the stock circuit at all. Just a shame there isn't an SSR integrated into a relay, not that I have found anyway. The ssr should supply a strong 13V source to pull the 70A contacts in hard, and switches on at the low voltage supplied by the stock pump wires, no earthing to the body required. (I always earth to the battery, just a habit of mine.) Interesting some use the 30 amp relays with built in diode protection to stop back emf, not sure it's needed on such a small coil but perhaps they have had issues? Pump signal straight from the ecu might be a better option, bypassing the stock relay, but with no current going through surely it would be more reliable anyway? Certainly a lot harder to run the wiring.

I would say you have blown an ecu or two. Perhaps the IPDM relay board? Where are you located?

I would be trying a known good dash cluster first. It isn't hard to swap over.

It will be the front wheel bearing, and the clunk will be the compression bushes most likely. Both very common issues at this age. Nearly every M35 I see needs poly compression bushes and rear diff bush replacement .

Dodged a bullet with that one.

The headers should, but don't run the pulley kit, it has no dampening. If you want a good set of headers grab a second hand set off a VQ37, with the heat shields.

Could just be bad fuel. The ecu will only throw codes when it knows what's wrong. This. You really don't want someone else's problems, not on a GTR.