scotty nm35

I have made around 20 modified actuators for M35's, welding springs to the side that pull back on the same angle as the stock spring. They hold around 17psi, depending on the setup, and work quite well.

I wish you hadn't ruined the factory actuator for a simple shaft Adam, I would have bought it off you as they are rare items. (mine keep going missing) If anyone else is planning to do this, perhaps make a new shaft for it, and better would be to use a dual port actuator if possible. That way you can use boost pressure to hold the actuator closed also.

If you are still having issues I could make one for you... Are you after alloy?

Anything not properly gal coated, such as the tank or steel lines, may rust out eventually due to moisture content. Generally e85 is pretty good as United/Caltex are required to mix corrosion inhibitors in the mix apparently. Replace any old rubber lines with ethanol compatible new hose and stick a Walbro 460 in, you shouldn't have any issues with the reg. I would stick with the bosch 1000's, or the ID 1300's if you can find a set. As for AFR's, my car ran pretty well cruising on 20:1 other than feeling a bit doughy, no discernable knock and the exhaust temps were under control. Not saying it's smart to tune it that lean, but it's possible, unlike with 98. Good to know when an issue arises you have some level of protection.

I have a couple of vices, and a set of small vice grip pointy pliers. None are big enough for 4 inch unfortunately, I need to find a larger vice or find another way to hold larger tube. I am making this 4 inch intake atm, for a GTX35 in a 33. The VQ afm should be good for over 450wkw resolution in 4 inch tube by my calculations. To be tuned with a PFC.

Yes, only the one failure. It lasted 500k's or so over a few months on ethanol, finally seizing after getting noisy for a week and left him broken down on the freeway. I took it back today so we shall see how good their 3 year warranty really is. Tried ringing VPW today to see how far away the DW400 ethanol pump is as they don't have stock still, they didn't answer as usual. Why it's listed in the catalogue is anyones guess. Hopefully it is the same Walbro 255 body size as the 460L won't fit in the stagea pump holder.

The M35 workshop manual hasn't been converted to english yet. I had my hands on the Japanese wiring manual but couldn't find a scanner large enough to copy it. I would just use the G35/V35/350z wiring chart, it will be very similar. PM me if you have issues finding it in a Google search.

Perhaps, the back is a little squished so it may be toast.

An exhaust shop, no. Any fabricator could make one. Does it need to be alloy or stainless? The plate can be removed off the bov I am fairly sure, that way you could use a round hose instead.

If it's a daily it won't be an issue. I used to use a 220L drum, I filled it with 20psi air pressure to pump the fuel out a servo style nozzle, it filled the car tank in no time. You are welcome to it if you are local, I now just use the low 20L red Bunnings drums as they are easier to transport. It will keep fine if in a sealed container.

Sounds like the banjo bolts in the sump weren't drilled out, and the turbo died from a lack of oil supply. If you can drop the turbo out again, checking the shaft play on the way out, I think you will find it needs a new set of bushes and a thrust washer replaced. (at least the bush cores are cheap to rebuild if there isn't too much damage. I would be hitting Stao up for a rebuild price, but I suspect he will need to check the damage first. Make sure your mechanic drills out all three banjo restrictors when it goes back in.

The 255's are a good pump, and handle the e85 perfectly imo, perhaps it would almost make your power. I can't say the same for the Deatschwerks 300 pump, I had to replace a seized one the other day. Hopefully the Aeromotive gives you a better run. Personally I would go for the $200 Walbro 460L e85 pump straight up. At least you know they will warrant any failures if you run ethanol as it's designed for it specifically.

They are more likely to be loose around the gear shifter, as that is the moving part.

Or you can simply weld a spring to the side of the stock actuator like I do, much cheaper and easier to swap springs. I do like you ingenuity, but getting to the actuator is a pita from the front.

Checked the plugs?

You most probably fouled the plugs. Pressure test the intake to see if you have any other hoses leaking.

The same could be said about any fuel, many cars have filled from the bottom of the servo tank and blocked filters/injectors, or blown engines. I have been running ethanol for 4-5 years daily without issue, if you want more of a guarantee, perhaps drum fuel is the go? Just make sure the lid stays on. Some water in the mix won't cause any issues, it may run a little lean but don't you have a wideband going in?

Gleeson and I saw a white c34 today in Frankston, but couldn't remember the rego.

Yep, that's fine. Inspections welcome. That picture doesn't do them justice, I couldn't find one gutter rash or mark on the face. And great tyres would get you buy for a few months to save for new ones.

What size are you after? Will the cheaper Xspurt 525's do the job? I can get you some prices if you are still looking... What compression did you end up with?

I have new Orings here... PM me.

Not at the track, I have heard of many PS pumps failing at trackdays, I fitted a slightly smaller one to mine before attempting any track work. The larger the cooler the better the cooling, the hassle with that is it may not heat up in winter, or quick enough to drop into top gear within a reasonable time. I run a massive 30 row oil cooler on my auto, but it has a mechanical thermostat on it to help bring the oil up to temp quickly, and I left it passing through the radiator.

Hope for the best? What do you think will happen to it in a sealed container? It will be fine, unlike 98 it doesn't drop octane over a month.

10W40 should be fine for those temps, 15W40 is getting a little thick at startup for my liking... If the oil filter non-return valve is leaking it can cause the startup knock issue too. Perhaps try a different brand?

Ahh, no. I think the F1 inspired 4.2L v8 sounded much nicer at 8500 revs. WTF is that abortion? As much as I like the 1uz it is weak as fark internally.