scotty nm35

You should be able to get to it from underneath on a hoist or jack, the motor isn't hard to swap.

Looks good mate.

Does the master cylinder reservoir have fluid in it?

It sounds like there is air in your clutch line, or the master or slave are faulty. I assume you mean the pedal stays on the floor?

Way to use 30 year old technology. Ditch the 044's and run a decent single pump, there are plenty of good quality examples around. If you get one with built in PWM speed control you can run it at reduced speed at cruise and control it with a load map from the ecu like I am planning. That way the fuel won't overheat. http://fuelab.com/products/race/prodigy-fuel-pumps/item/42401_prodigy_fuel_pump_high_pressure_efi_in_line/ That is the pump I bought, hopefully up to the task. I want to run 100+psi pressure.

Shame they don't read all the ecu's though. The Chinese knockoff Consult 3 is the best reader for diagnosing I have found. It is quite complicated to navigate the software though.

That is the solenoid for the charcoal canister, so it only sucks air from the tank when there is vac in the manifold. Perhaps it's leaking? It looks like the same part my car uses for a stock boost controller.

It just drips onto the turbo, causing oil smoke to be sucked into the heater system. It isn't too hard to change though, and only costs around $30.

Looks great. That bov return shouldn't give you any problems.

Sounds like the inside air temp sensor is buggered, or the hose has dropped off it or is kinked. If you have a c34 I don't know how the sensor is mounted, or where it is. (M35 is under the steering wheel.) 18 degrees is cold air only in my car.

I love my GTX3076, but it's a little pointless spending the extra cash and sticking a 400kw, high boost capable turbo on if you aren't going to use it's potential... Just my opinion. If you are planning to run it hard, it will be a very fast wagon, just a little laggy down low. There are definitely better options for a daily but your decision is made now, so enjoy it.

More reply options... Add pic. 2 reverse gears? why would anyone want to drive that fast in reverse?

Not yet, the EV14's are the big seller, the Morans are always too expensive at around $250-$300 each, depending on size.

They would make more than that, if the Walbro can keep up the flow at high pressure. (according to the flow chart it should...) I can quote you some prices via PM if you like.

Fark it was loud before, I doubt he will get looked at now. (unless they think it's turbo.)

You would need to fabricate custom brackets. Anything is possible with enough time and money...

Petrol engines anyway. Nails on a tin roof, just listen to an Excel going up a hill.

Not for E85, there are 2200cc continental/VDO injectors for petrol vehicles, but I have never seen them used, and they are a little more expensive than the Bosch 2000's last I checked with my wholesaler.

What fuel pressure do you want to run?

With that cylinder pressure I would be swapping out the factory head bolts for some ARP 625+. Your call at the end of the day... Perhaps you enjoy changing head gaskets.

The 1000's are fine, the 2000's are natural gas injectors. If ID actually release the 1300's for sale (I hear they are having issues supplying them atm) they would be the best option, until then the 1000's are your best choice, with a higher base fuel pressure to bump them up into the 1300-1500cc flow area. Be wary buying from the US as a warranty from there is almost useless. (by the time you pay for shipping back to ID and wait a month for them to be returned.) The other option is Moran injectors, not cheap but there are plenty of sizes to chose from, and they spray beautifully, but you will need a 10 micron filter for them or your warranty is void.

Looks good Angelo, just face the BOV return towards the compressor, cut on a 45 degree angle, and weld it in. It will take a while to die grind the hole, partly the reason I use alloy for my intakes as it's much easier to shape the holes in.

Thanks for the heads up guys, I went down to Supergas for a winge today and ended up speaking to the sales manager on the phone while at the counter. He ended up giving me a 10.5m3 refill for $125, less than half what I was paying. I don't have pics of the damaged manifolds, one I had to repair, and one I saw on a car, the crack was definitely down in the webbing but it could have started beside the weld and cracked further away as it made it's way around the pipe. I didn't get a good look at it as it was on the car. It was probably 2mm tube so very thin and light stainless. It would glow white hot on the dyno within a second or two of hitting boost. My point was, he had a GT42 mounted without a hanger or support, and a 4 inch exhaust with no hangers till the diff. Perhaps it would have lasted longer if the manifold could move around on the head a little and the turbo was supported.

Yes, I definitely need to find a better supplier, Supergas are ripping me a new one. The evo manifold is nearly half the length of an RB manifold, hence no real expansion. Most of the cracks I have seen have been 10-20mm from the weld, near the merge. I imagine if you could flex the runners by hand a few times, they would break in a similar spot. Stainless is a bitch for expansion rates anyway, mild steampipe is much better for mani's.

Bleed it first, if that don't fix it, it could be the pedal position screw on the master cylinder needs adjusting.