scotty nm35

Get well Hamish... In other news... Aaron, can you repossess one of these and make sure no-one else bids on it at auction? http://smh.drive.com.au/new-car-reviews/mercedesbenz-a45-amg-first-drive-review-20130828-2sq7w.html

I will try and get some pics, unless this engine bay shot is good enough? That sounds like a good setup for around that power.

Your fault Aayayron, you must be the carrier...

Ahh, right. Apparently I can copy and paste firmware. There is of course no need for a firmware update, the car was working fine for years, then started running rough. There is a fault somewhere that needs to be fixed.

Do they offer adjustable castor? I haven't touched my Superpro bushes in 3 years or more, still no noise. Shame Superpro don't do the diff bushes, although the whiteline ones are a great design.

I understand that, but the ecu doesn't care for exact content percentages, as long as the sensor reads consistently it will tune fine.

I have replaced a few sensors on customer's cars, there is usually another reason for the failure/issue though. The alignment could be off a few MM.

Does it matter how accurate the sensor is if it's dyno tuned on that same sensor? Just stick it in and tune the damn thing.

Nothing, they are the same kit. Get Craig (Jetwreck) to do it in Sydney, he has done more RE5 shift kits than any transmission specialist.

I would say it just needs a tune, the engines will flow vastly different amounts of air at cruise, the afr's will be miles out.

This might be your only shot at fixing it cheaply, The sensors are available in the US at around $200 us the set, although I am hoping the aftermarket ones I am ordering in work just as well at a fraction of that price. Edit: It's not just a bad batch of fuel is it? Have you put a fresh batch of 98 into it?

^^ this is a load of crap. Nissan have access to the correct software and choose not to diagnose, because they know it will be a headache. If they refuse to help, try another dealer. I have the aftermarket consult 3 unit here, but unfortunately it doesn't run the waveform diagnostic oscilloscope part of it.

Most people buy K+N because they are retarded and don't realise it will coat their AFM with a film of oil, causing it to meter air incorrectly. Go with the Ryco paper element, or if you want a free flowing filter, a Blitz or similar dry cotton.

Not superpro. lol. I told you Mark... *mumble mumble* Young guys never bloody listen...

I run the same turbo, the GTX is only a good choice for someone planning on running 25+ psi, otherwise the GT or a Hypergear is a better option imo. It is a fairly laggy 400kw on e85 turbo choice. What do you want out of your setup?

I have been using an SX reg for quite a few years on ethanol. Watch for the Sard copies...

The SS2pu isn't too bad now, Stao has modified his compressor design for more response, the 'Push' comes in at around 2800 on the stock ecu which is not too bad imo. (although I drive a laggy pos. lol)

^ This. Had it for a month now, I am well over it.

You will need the correct length 14mm injector with a 10.2mm adapter. If you try and fit injectors that are too long or short you will need to modify the rail spacers accordingly. Also, the lower 14mm Oring needs to be replaced with a larger square section Oring.

Generally the fittings are softened by the welding process, did you lubricate the fittings before you tightened them? I use anti-seize on all AN fitting threads for this reason. I usually have no issues with Torques UK fittings, the latest batch of 4an teflon braided fittings had a 30% leak rate, but a few extra olives had them working again. Good quality for the price, and he is more than happy to help with issues, unlike Proflow... If you want guaranteed quality and operation go with the Speedflow gear, I just can't justify the price.

Yes, the unused port needs to bleed off pressure, rip the plastic plug out. You can stick a muffler on it, or even plumb it back into the intake...

You need to get in on a Consult 3/3+ and check the crank and cam sensor waveforms, only a Nissan dealer would be able to diagnose this kind of fault properly imo, without swapping sensors aimlessly... But the cost... Or you can just change the cam/crank sensors. If only you were local, is yours a 3.5L?

Yeh Jussi, drop in with it. You could have picked up the intake after all.

Oh, Stoptech. lol. Yeh, they were only 2 piece, not 3 piece like the stock ones.

Meh. The Solid state relay will lose you 1V so you are dropping the total voltage supplied to the pump by that amount. I want to get more voltage to my pump, not less... 16-18V would be good. Are you over running the stock FPR yet?