scotty nm35

Good, should work fine with the clip supporting it.

Know anyone with an injector flow tester? You are welcome to drive down and put it on my machine...

Agreed, pressure test it from the intake to rule out any leaks, you can't get to most of the piping to check it thoroughly enough.

The higher the better, as the gearbox line pressure is dropping with every .1v you clamp it down. I hope you have the Transgo fitted.

They aren't that expensive to buy brand new, with the plug. (I do them for around $300.) As above there are many copies getting about so buy from a reputable supplier.

Ok, take pics for us, I would like to see how it turns out.

Check the head studs and try re-torquing them, I suspect one or two may have stretched as they did in the car I have here. It won't fix the problem though, if it's leaking the gasket will need to be changed anyway. Why can't I find L19's or 625+ head bolts for the RB's? I can get both for the VQ and I suspect they are very similar anyway... Same thread M11.

M11 standard i'm pretty sure (from ARP), no idea on the pitch though. I had to buy one for the VQ as they run the same M11 thread on the head bolts. Make sure you get a bottoming tap.

Further to this, even the relay won't last long with a Walbro 460L, I have seen many drawing over 30 amps, blowing fuses and melting relays and tank lids. The issue isn't the pump, or the wiring. I suspect the relays don't get enough voltage to pull in the contacts hard, hence the current spikes as the voltage drops due to the bad relay contacts. Some last days, some months. A solid state relay would fix it, but you lose 0.7V over the output switch. Probably best to run a solid state relay to power the coil of the 70 amp power relay, that way you can be sure the 70 amp relay is getting the full 13V it requires to energise properly, without affecting it's ecu controlled operation.

It isn't an upgrade at all, it just allows the airflow to be read accurately at higher power than the stock AFM can handle. Have a search in the FI section, there is a crapload of info on this. You will require a programmable ecu and a tune, so it isn't a cheap exercise.

Does it drive the same in AFM limp mode? If it idles fine, then it obviously isn't the fuel pump, slap a known good AFM element in there and try it out, it's the only way to rule the AFM from the equation. The AFM's rarely fail where the ECU actually throws a code in my experience, and I have changed literally hundreds of them. Once it's sorted, get a new mechanic. I suspect he just wasted your time and money changing a perfectly good pump. Do you know what pump he put in there? it might need to be re-wired if it's an aftermarket Walbro or similar. They don't like that low voltage at idle/cruise (that all cars do these days.)

Man, this is getting crazy, an adapter on each end, full length, the injectors will move around too much for my liking... You really don't want them popping out while driving, they need to be firm so make sure you keep the rail height down to minimum.

It's ferked, and the ecu has no way of telling it's ferked. Scanners don't tell you the fault, they only tell you what the ECU thinks the fault might be, perhaps. Edit, does it run the same if you unplug the AFM?

Oh, you need a 'power be gone' I can definitely help with that part.

Mine doesn't offer much, but then again, I don't have the correct degree required to run such a complicated diag tool.

He changed the AFM already? Matt is on the money I suspect.

Depends which cell the ecu is in, it's not a set voltage it cuts at, I have seen it as low as 4.8v down lower in the map with smaller turbo's.

Want to do it once? Just stick the patrol/300zxtt box in there. Don't think Transgo do an RE4 kit do they? I usually get swap over valve bodies from MV.

Wastegate springs soften with heat which exacerbates the manifold pressure issue. Slap some stiffer springs in it and see how you go. Sounds like the Link is working overtime to try and hold boost.

You don't want full height, you need 3/4 height for the neo.

Even those fine particles will be filtered out before doing bearing damage most likely, unless your filter was bypassing. I suspect the oil pump was faulty which caused the other issues. What caused the failure who knows, but it would have had to fit through the mesh in the pickup.

That's disgusting, never seen corrosion that bad before. Looks like it's been in the ocean, or a Tsunami got it.

Jesse Streeter is the man to ask, he could bring in a Jap exhaust pretty cheap these days. I just bought a power duct, but I had to buy the entire airbox for it.

A local mechanic should be able to replace the assembly, but he would likely have to pull the engine out, or at least the front off the car and motor to access the chain assembly. I do it from the keyhole in the front, but I wouldn't recommend it for someone who hasn't been inside a VQ before. Here is the assembly in operation, click on the pic to see the GIF. Some light reading, there are many more if you search. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340012-clickingrattling-noise-when-engine-rev/page-3

Too many knockoff Walbro pumps to buy safely off the net, just buy from a reputable supplier and be sure it isn't a chinese clone, they look exactly the same on the outside. 342, should be around $120.