scotty nm35

Big brudda?

No worries guys. I have had a few questions on this, one being can there be drawbacks. I personally don't think it will affect oil pressure to the engine, as only a small amount still flows to the turbos, even after drilling the banjos. I would definitely like to check the difference in oil pressure between my engine and this one but I have no gauge at the moment, and it is quite hard to read pressure without the adapter plate under the oil filter. I will check it at a later date. Another question was, why aren't other turbo's blowing up. I believe there is JUST enough oil flow to keep the turbo's spinning, any partial blockage may be enough to do damage imo. Drilling the banjos out will give the turbo some leeway with oil requirements. Here is the oil line we are discussing...

It's a different grade, of course it would feel different. How often would it be at hot oil temps this time of year... Do you have an oil temp gauge? Pouring new 10w40 into an engine today it was like honey...

Tiptronic is more efficient.

What are your Yahoo login details Aaron?

Why would you be disappointed with it? What were you expecting from it that other $50 oils don't give?

Funny Craig, they look exactly like the sidchrome ones I bought. I wonder if they are exactly the same? The Sidchrome ones cost 3 times as much...

Yep, Stao ships his turbo's out with a new banjo to suit the smaller thread in the CHRA. No idea why he doesn't simply tap it out, surely it's easier than cutting a banjo on the lathe... Anyway, what you did is fine Chris, just pointless if there are still two more restrictors. I would definitely suggest drilling them next service.

Don't you simply use the stock lines? There is a 'how to' in the stagea section. I assume yours is a series two?

No-one else can be stuffed doing the R+D. lol.

Leave it stock sized for the stock turbo, but make sure they are clear perhaps, next time you dump the oil. Nissan wouldn't have put them there for no reason...

I have always suggested to drill out the banjo bolt in the block (that supplies the turbo with oil) to around 2.5mm once a highflow bush core turbo is installed. After the recent failure of a highflow due to oil starvation I did a flow test of the line at idle and found there wasn't enough oil flowing, even with the line/banjo disconnected. Suspecting a blockage in the block feed I checked another car and surprisingly found the same thing, the oil was only dribbling out. I checked on my spare engine and found in the sump another oil feed line, with two more 1mm restricted banjo bolts that feed oil to the external line. So it seems there are actually 3 x 1mm restricted banjo bolts as stock. Nissan definitely thought the oil pressure was way too high for the standard ball bearing turbo... It also explains why the oil feed is so commonly blocked. On this car I have opened up the two sump banjo bolts to 2.5mm and approximately tripled the oil flow to the turbo, hopefully enough to supply the bush core with surplus. It was a bit wet today to take pictures but I will organise some next week, it's not a difficult job other than taking the pan off. I am not suggesting everyone should rush out and drill these two extra banjo bolts out as I have, but Hypergear and I have agreed I should do this mod to all further turbo installs, to make sure not only the holes aren't blocked, and won't easily block again, but that there is sufficient oil flow to his turbos. I am also thinking about running braided lines and a filter inside the sump to replace the hard line, as it's easier to get to than the block mounted line, and would make sure no further blockages would occur. Not sure if it's warranted yet.

^^ would make it way too hard to open the rear door man. What about under the car, and coming out the back so the fumes don't asphyxiate you anymore than they have?

Is the turbo stock? As above, it sounds like the wastegate isn't dumping enough exhaust. Are you sure the actuator is stock also?

Try resoldering the AFM pins as per the 'how to'.

L19's have the same tensile strength as the 625+ as far as I know. Where did you get them? I scoured every shop a few months ago for my 4g63 stroker kit, couldn't find the 625+ studs anywhere.

It could possibly be done on the PFC but you would need to ditch one of the existing inputs. Is there something with a map attached that isn't used? Probably best to ask your tuner. You would also need to run a digital to analogue converter, the best option would be the Zeitronix box as you then get an ethanol content gauge.

They are 40 profile, you will need 30 profile for 20's at a guess.

Nice ride. Do you have a picture of the stock coils? Perhaps the VQ ones will work?

Too much powerz bro?

Yes they are reliable, and they flow well. Are they tested to destruction like the Garrett offerings? Probably not. Will they contain the exploding turbine wheel? I doubt it. I run a stainless housing on mine, it's the Tial copy 60mm GT30 version and it works very well externally gated. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stainless-Steel-Turbo-T3-Flange-Turbine-Housing-V-clamp-82-AR-for-HKS-GT3037-/151082683112?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232d3acae8&_uhb=1

Stainless turbos? There are much better ecu options around than the outdated PFC too.

There is a whole thread dedicated to Kando turbo's, also look at the Hypergear options for similar cost and local warranty. IBTL.

Spotted this nice S14 ruined by an orange paint job...