scotty nm35
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Everything posted by scotty nm35
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Way to find more area under the curve. I hope it ends up faster around the track than it was stock... Lets have a guess, 20psi by 5k? Better VNT that sucker Stao... -
The cyclists will definitely scream if you blow them...
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You should have dropped in mate, the generic code descriptions are crap. The consult 3 would have explained it better and allowed direct testing of the sensor. At least the limp mode went away and it wasn't the AFM... If it's the cam sensor I may have one, but try it out, it can only throw another code and go into limp again...
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The turbo isn't the issue, if you swap to ethanol like everyone is saying, the problem will disappear. Tracking it like this on 98 is asking for trouble, but what do I know...
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M35 Arx Triple Din Gauge Install
scotty nm35 replied to ONETEN's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
I just sold my spare set of gauges to another owner trying to do the same thing. If you don't have the sensor for the boost in the engine bay, I don't think you will have the plug for the gauges. It would be easy enough to run most of the wires, Voltage and Boost, (all you would need is the map sensor) but the Attessa might be difficult. I have no idea how that's wired in... -
The pressure will always be high in the manifold at full noise, and wastegate spring tension is critical to making big boost in internal gate applications, as you can't force the gate closed with boost like an external gate application. Perhaps the best option would be to remove the turbo completely as that is the restriction you speak of.
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What plugs did you install, and at what gap? I have never had an issue on my stock coils, they are bulletproof. I would say you have a wiring issue or similar. Go see Craig. Try a new ecu and coil harness perhaps. I wish I could plug the consult 3 into it for you, it makes for very easy diagnosis for these types of issues as you can switch off each coil individually.
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It's not the restrictor, it sounds like the gasket wasn't installed correctly...
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There is a complete oil thread just below the NEW TOPIC button. ^^ Probably a good place to start...
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They were the only floating disk brakes I could buy back then, and with a good sintered pad in them they are easily the best brakes I have ever used. Solid disks would warp in no time at that speed. You are welcome to take it for a spin if you like. Break it you bought it.
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After 4 years finished I finally got it down to my mates bike shop to get the frame powder coated. I will post pics when it's back if anyone is interested. It took 4 years to design and build too, many nights of discussion over bourbon cans... etc... The motor goes through the 9 gears so it's quite potent for it's engine size and only 25kg. I used an 8 inch downhill rear end, 8 inch triple clamp forks and made the frame to suit out of chromo. Anyone that doesn't know what a downhill bike can do should google search, it is an indestructible dirt bike you can throw easily over a fence. 6 piston Ti Hope brakes can stand it on it's front wheel as I found out the hard way. No expense spared on this one. Shame only tight arses want to buy motorised bikes... I only sold one down spec'd version. There is much more work out there for performance vehicles.
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Not that one anymore, the frame cracked. 35cc 4 stroke Honda powah....
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A bigger rear will only exacerbate the lag issue though. I'm not trying to shit on the engine build, quite the opposite, but I have completely different ideas on extracting usable power and torque from engines. I guess you are trying to get around the one limitation you refuse to discuss, fuel quality...
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Then why was 8 degrees of timing required to be removed to stop the det? Why was the motor making less powerz at the same boost? Something aint kosher... Did you double check the cam timing?
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The look on that car driver's face when I overtook him on Stud road... Priceless.
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Did you send the bottle of scotch with the payment?
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But... I racked up more points than you have cubic inches Platts. haha.
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At the end of the day, whoever is at fault, the bike rider pays the price. Exactly why I used to ride with no farks given for the rules, I was looking out for number 1, just trying to stay alive. 20k's over seemed to keep me in the clear, overtaking cars before they realised I was there, and kept me out of blind spots. Unfortunately the police never agreed with my theory on this...
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True dat. The first thing I got taught in the HART rider training course was to never sit in a drivers blind spot, and to never travel in the left lane. Car drivers have issues seeing a bus let alone a motorbike in their left mirror.
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Whilst I fully agree, I must give in to my inner Ozzy and tell you to 'Gobackhomethen you pommy git'
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I had the choice, I rebuilt my engine and chose not to port the head, or oversize the valves. I could have also gone with VQ35 cams but I would rather max the stock setup as I knew the turbo would be my limiting factor anyway. Do you think the engine is more efficient now?
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I used ARP specs but I admit, my bore is floating so doesn't suffer from the 'out of round' associated with solid blocks. Clamp the sucker down tight was my motto, 96nm ftw.
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lol. I will have to keep working on you it seems Tony.
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I agree, and it changes massively with pressure. There is a 50% flow increase bumping the pressure from 45 to 100psi. IMO, save your cash and just buy a better pump capable of running high pressure continuously with 1000's
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When they go bang, they quite often take the engine with them...
