scotty nm35

I just had the wholesaler flow test a 1650 shorty and you may have a problem with that idea. With that lower extension on the cone sprays out wide enough to hit the edge. It would have to be modified with a 45 degree chamfer, but this leaves the raw alloy exposed to the ethanol which is not a great long term option. It may get you by until you find a better solution though. Let me know if you want me to sort something out for you, I can probably make something up today and send the top and modified bottom extensions express.

I will see what I can do. I need to sort this out so it doesn't happen to one of my customers anyway.

The wire isn't the issue, the afm has an ecu inside it which fails. Could be low input voltage causing it, but I have seen a brand new Nissan afm blow the first time the car was booted, so it definitely isn't dirt or oil causing that fault. The hotwire isnt able to be touched in these really. The original superseded OEM part number is the one to get, they last many years, it's the new Nissan part number that fails constantly. If only there was a batch of old stock laying around. Until then we are stuck trialling aftermarket afms till we find another good source.

How much water do you think it can possibly suck in out of the atmosphere in a sealed system? Not enough to have any disastrous effects as I proved recently. (thanks for the free fuel Daz ) 2 year old e85 sitting in a 33 gtr tank with open fuel lines, it read almost exactly the same ethanol content and ran perfectly fine in my Evo. AFR's were stable, and the car didn't detonate, hesitate or show signs of fuel degradation. I know I can't say the same for 98, even with a stabiliser it won't last that long from my experiences. Not saying to run old e85 fuel at the track, but putting around town with the occasional squirt isn't going to kill the engine unless you shove the garden hose down the filler. If your tune is so close to the limits that a 1 or 2 percent variation matters on boost, you have more important things to worry about imo, like how even your intake runners are flowing, dust buildup on your afm insulating the hotwire, or how well matched your injectors are at operating pressures with your particular engine loom. Tuners run e85 maps fairly fat on boost so it's unlikely to ever be an issue, in fact it absorbs any trace water and gets it out of your fuel system, so it doesn't build up in the bottom of the tank and cause the issues you mentioned with the carby car. Lean running ethanol would still run much cooler combustion/exhaust temps than a good petrol tune too if you did happen to leave the lid off in the rain. Brake fluid is also hydroscopic, but some leave it there for 10+ years, and it's quality is much more important...

That VPW fitting should work, I can get a hold of one and check it fits if you like, before you buy them, and work out what top spacer you will need too, as that needs to shortened by the same amount.

Something tells me the Oring color doesn't have much to do with the quality. When you have blown 7 or more Nissan ones at $330 each (like some of my customers), some only lasting an hour or two, you will be looking at other avenues for sure. Took me a fair while to find a decent supplier in China, but they were an exact copy, if not made in the same factory. Check the WRX forums, the early ones ran the same AFM, they may have a better idea of which ones work.

Apparently not when I asked him, as it's just a basic AFM signal bender. If it had injector and timing control it would I suspect.

If it's banging the end of it's travel it may already have snapped, if not the oil grade may fix it, I always suggest trying a thicker oil before disassembling the engine. The Consult 3 unit allows the cam timing to be re-learnt, but it won't repair the assembly if it is damaged obviously. Oil viscosity is critical to cam actuation which is why they don't operate until the engine is up to operating temp. That's why the engine feels so lethargic at warmup. If you pull the blue plugs on the front one at a time you can find if it's one side or the other. You may be able to see if there is anything broken by just dropping the front cam actuator cover and having a look. Did you see the assembly in operation in that thread?

Fit an Emanage, then you can probably go a Z32 or VQ35 afm and never have an issue again.

That looks great. Still using the original ones on the hoist pads, I did manage to lose one as they have a habit of getting stuck on the rails, the customer drove off before I realised. They work well, and even though they deform when weight is applied, they spring back perfectly after a minute or two. I wonder if it's possible to taper the slot slightly to help them fall away when you lower the jack/hoist? Being bolted or glued to the hoist would fix that, but it would make it harder to align on the rail which is sometimes a pain already. Would work better on the jack than the hoist I suspect. Some cars have plastic side skirts which limit the length of the jacking point to the width of the factory jack, so I can't use the pads on those cars without damaging the plastic. If the slot was shorter it would work better on these cars, but I like the size otherwise. Probably should machine a set down to the width of a scissor jack for a trial to see how much it weakens the design. Keep up the good work Michael.

Boost controller I suspect. The stock solenoid is best left plugged in electrically, then remove the bleed T and insert the controller. As the wastegate actuator is only 7psi it may be hard to hold any decent boost in the top end without getting a stiffer spring for the actuator, to hold the wastegate puck shut better.

Did you have a search for the other threads yet? I suspect yours is a metallic clunking noise right? I would be getting on to it quickly, before the actuator gets damaged. I have had to replace quite a few of these actuators, it's not an easy job.

A minute hairline crack in the flame ring, which only opens up under heat and boost is impossible to find without removing the head. You can try pressure testing, and carbon testing the coolant, but mine only ever pushed combustion pressure into the cooling system on heavy load. I drove it like that for a year before it let go in a big way. Depending where the leak is, internal or external, there must be coolant going somewhere it shouldn't. Larger studs help, but they still don't have the clamp force of the newer 625+ or old L19 studs. Think of the studs as a spring pushing the head down onto the block. I also use a little Hylomar spray on my MLS gaskets, just in case a small crack propagates it will hopefully stop it leaking. My engine builder does the same. Relying on the machinist to make a perfectly smooth block surface will likely end in tears I believe.

Amayama, UAE. You can find the part numbers if you type your VIN into EPCdata.

Good chance this is a common issue, and possibly the reason your car was sold at auction cheap in Japan. I'm just glad my TCU is inside the car.

The trans doesn't throw a light, it just goes into limp mode which is stuck in 4th with our box. It could have been an old code, but if you are saying it's down on power, something is definitely still wrong with it. See if the codes popped back up when they cleared them, if so the trans is buggered.

There is an ethanol servo on every corner in Melbourne, no excuse these days. Just keep a jerry in the boot. I managed to get 400k's from the little 40L tank in the evo the other week. No idea why the Stagea goes through twice that usually.

There is a switch that triggers on the stick when you push it over into manual, this isn't getting back to the transmission computer by the looks. If you have been under the dash I suspect you haven't plugged something in.

The engine light should come on when you turn the key on, then extinguish when it's started. is yours? Sounds like the transmission might be in limp mode, and the throttle is restricted because of it. Have you taken it to a trans specialist yet? What did they mean by the AFM is the cause? (Mass air sensor)

You likely got raped. Timing chains rarely stretch, unless there is no oil getting to them, and they would make an almighty racket if that was the case. Either they messed up the cam timing, which is very likely, or there is an exhaust blockage. Nothing much else would change the note. Edit, just realised it was sluggish before the chains were changed. Are you sure there were no engine codes? Does the engine light come on when you turn the ignition on?

Not a great angle on the gate, but if you aren't having boost control issues, I guess it will work ok. I would usually expect a 200rpm later spool, the graph should look much the same, but no tapering off in the top end. Looks like yours barely tapers off, so I doubt you need it, unless you want to stop the torque falling away. Decide where you want your power band, then make the decision. Most cars don't sit on 7000 revs often on the road.

Can't use TPS without putting the engine in throttle limp mode. Using the pedal may work. They both have 0-5v and 5-0v potentiometers for error detection.

Oh noes. I hope you didn't use ARP2000 head bolts... You wouldn't be the first to lift a head at that power using them.

Well if Luke tried it and failed... Takes more than 20psi get the numbers. Isn't that exactly what Daz used? I see he has given up on twins though...

Dat external gate e85 torque.