scotty nm35

There is an HKS dealer in NZ somewhere apparently... Craig's old mate used them so I heard, and they apparently sourced a harness. (not sure if true or not) The 4 pins are extra wires going back to the ecu from the Fcon that aren't normally used, and are not populated in the oem plug. No idea what they do yet, I just drive the car.

Do you need the harness? Perhaps hard wiring is an option? I have a spare ecu and wiring harness here, but there are 4 extra pins used that aren't in the oem loom... Where are you located Dale?

Well it doesn't help with the oil draining from the head...

Sounds like dry solder joints in the afm then, do a search for the "how to" afm repair thread... Can you operate a soldering iron?

I bought the rubber oem Stagea mat for the back, check it out, perfect for dogs... I might even sell it for the right price...

Speedo is only good for 500hp. No seriously, have you checked the wires into the gearbox are plugged in properly? Or try cleaning them...

PM'd. There is no way of holding more boost than that in the top end, without a heavier spring on the wastegate actuator. The more pressure in the manifold, the worse it holds boost.

Aren't you running one of my modified actuators Rudi?

12 psi actuators are definitely on the weak side, if thats what they once were. No amount of controlling will make them run 20+ right through the revs. Perhaps they have softened or need more preload? Too many people rely on the controller to do all the work imo. The actuator spring is the most important part and needs to be matched to the boost you want to run, and the pressure in the manifold. Much cheaper than trying another controller too.

The issue is with the new part Nissan are supplying, with a different part no. The original ones are very reliable, as are the aftermarket ones apparently. Those of you running the Emanage Ultimate can run any AFM you like, Z32 included, or even piss it off altogether and run a map sensor.

The crank sensor is at the rear of the engine, it picks up it's signal off the flex plate. One 10mm bolt and it's swapped.

Fiddling like what? They are very reliable if the oil changes are done regularly.

I'm guessing you need stronger wastegate actuators, not a boost controller yet. Get the boost sorted first, then think about bumping it up while on the dyno.

I ran a 20mm holesaw through the tunnel and installed a grommet. Otherwise the wiring was too short. The sensor needs to be down near the back of the box and mounted as close to vertically as possible.

Only coupe parts? Why not 4 door or Stagea? Probably better if you list what parts you need, someone may have them available without the wreck...

Maltech have a set, not cheap though, due to the 3 piece design and all stainless fittings. I just used HEL lines for a g35/350z, two piece so they needed cable-tying to the upright. 1/4 the price. The G35X would have similar lines to ours I assume, perhaps they are cheaper? I will send you a stock set up if you like, 1 front and 1 rear. PM me your details again Josh.

I did electronic repair to component level for years, they are not repairable. The AFM that lasted 20 minutes was from Nissan, 21A P/N. He has since modified an N15 Pulsar 4 pin AFM (no intake temp sensor) and soldered the thermistor directly to the loom, then stuck it into the airbox. Works great and should last.

The old rpm based switching unit didn't work and was discontinued. Hopefully the new setup works well. Controlling the Varex using boost pressure didn't work well as it's lag city with the flap closed. If I could set the rpm opening point on mine to just before the turbo spool it would be very handy.

Considering he is the Nissan service mech at the dealership in question I assume he doesn't want to make too many waves. He is definitely ready to sell the car though, as the new afm he bought today lasted 20 minutes. I am running with a blown AFM at the moment, as I lent it to another owner while he got a replacement. My Fcon Vpro runs off the HKS map sensor so the afm isn't required, but the engine light pops up still. I want a reliable solution for myself too.

No worries, I can send one side. Who is making them for you?

I have spoken to a mate today after telling him to return the faulty Nissan AFM's. He returned two with receipts and was told unless he told them the ODO k's at purchase, they weren't covered with their 12 month 20,000 k warranty. It would need to be installed by a licenced mechanic too, even better the Nissan service centre, that way they can sting you $200 more to clear the code. Great service by Nissan... Anyway, nothing will make me happier than to put a stop to their thieving ways by undercutting their best seller.

I would assume any decent tuner would disconnect the o2 sensor to tune an EMU, only plugging it back in once the maps are almost set. Otherwise you are fighting the stock ecu the whole way, for fuel and timing... You will be much better off with a standalone as you know, but it is a lot of coin, and if you are happy to learn the Emanage's quirks they are a good unit. (most days )

Like Trent said, as long as the pressure is stable at that point, it can be tuned around. Simply bumping the base up to 60psi would help with the spray patterns, and you have the pump to supply such high pressures. Just remember you need to add your boost pressure to the base pressure to get your maximum rail pressure, and the pump flow will drop off as it gets above 80psi.

Single sided?

I think Alex was just pointing out that the engines aren't the same, and I should be fitting a det ecu into the V35. It won't work mate, too many ecu's needing to communicate to each other. I would rather try and trick the DD ecu into thinking it has a DD engine connected to it still. The engines are essentially the same. Not saying there won't be issues to tackle, but I am confident I can get it all running with the EMU connected.