scotty nm35

All those codes may have been there for a while, I would check the new error, getting the code number once it's scanned and plug it in to google. Was it a local Mech you went to? Nissan's Consult3 units give a much more detailed description of faults (sometimes) and it can be worth taking it to Nissan for a scan, but at $150-200 it isn't cheap. The Chinese Consult3 knockoff I use works well on all the ecu's in the car, I also have the Osirus cable which gives good descriptions of engine codes. Other units can be hit and miss, and it would depend if the mech updated the unit with later Japanese protocols. The slip light could be caused by mismatched tyre sizing also I think. So all three lamps come on together?

I have 3 clusters... Perhaps I am trying to sell them to the wrong people...

They will stick out at the front and back. Get into the V35 section and search the 11ty other threads on the subject...

Pressure testing the intake would be a good idea, and check the vac lines to the fuel reg/map sensor if you are running one.

My car only has 50,000k's on the clock thanks to the Nismo cluster...

You have a GT30 externally gated and haven't tuned the car yet? Sounds like afm reversion, can you post pics of the intake setup? I would love to help you out with the injectors but the guy supplying them should be doing that, surely.

I have about 7 pumps within 20k's of me, in all directions.

Definitely do the shift kit, it also changes all the trans fluids which it would need anyway. I have only seen a few aftermarket manifolds in Japan, not much need for the headache though. Even HKS used our stock manifolds for their 350z single kits. Not much point changing the manifolds until well over 300kw. Venting the BOV on any afm metered car is a bad idea, you will have to go MAP sensored with the fcon if you want that. As with any car, ecu tuning is very important once any serious mods are done, and the only real option at the moment is the Emanage Ultimate unfortunately.

Make sure they change the guides, especially the tensioner one. (known failure point as the plastic guide plate becomes brittle.) I would say this may be the main cause of your issues, or perhaps the tensioner. If the chain has indeed 'stretched' or worn beyond what the tensioner can take the slack of, then I would be checking the oil feed squirters to the chain aren't blocked.

Boost cut is easy to get around, but are you running 22 psi?

Boost cut or airflow cut?

Not a problem, just not setup to handle 60% more power. The ecu needs to be tricked and the Auto needs new fluid and a shift kit. A 3 inch exhaust will help, everything else should be fine to get you there... Just.

Then get a flex tune, apparently you can get the ethanol content sensors for under $100 now, and they plug straight into the adaptronic.

Seems the turbo Stao built isn't off a 10 then, it was reverse rotation. I would have loved a 4g64 block but I was worried the engine number change would make it harder to register, and I prefer to leave the original motor in there for some chance of looking stock. I won't be revving the crap out of it, 8k hard cut should be fine. I am expecting the highflow to be on boost by 3.5-4k with the non Mivec head. I will have to look into the 7rs diff as I have heard the AYC will crap out. Whilst I would love a Mivec head, I just got the call my 7 head is rebuilt. Gotta go.

I dropped the Evo 7 stock turbo off to Stao tonight, we compared the housings to another customer's and could barely see a difference, although my 7 turbo had a 10.5 rear, and the evo 10 turbo had a .98 rear. Should be interesting to see what a completely stock looking setup can achieve. (still need to register the car) For now I plan to run the backwards billet ss2 in stock housings with the Manley 2.3 stroker kit on stock cams and exhaust, with the possibility of e85 in the tank.

Thread is useless without pics of completed callipers.

The only set of copper plugs I have ever found for the VQ were $14 a plug, same price I pay for Iridiums which last much longer. I could probably go well over 50,000ks on a set of LFR7's if I chose to, but Cihan likes me to change them regularly. If I want 8's the price goes up to $300 a set. (Nismo plugs) If I could get coppers for $4 I would probably be using them, because tight arse. Currently running 30psi on stock coils without issue. (on e85) Tractor motors have different requirements obviously.

WTF? LOL!

I have one in Hampton Park... PM'd.

Are RE still open? I saw Ray working at RTR the other day. I would also look seriously at the Adaptronic, great value for money and if you can wire it in by splicing into the harness, even cheaper. (I would still go the plug-in though.)

Perhaps the diaphragm in the gate has failed? Edit: I think that would raise the boost thinking about it. (depending how it's hooked up)

They are BC coilovers by the looks of it, with Blitz labels. Even Pedders do the same thing, rebranding BC's to their own. What kind of servicing are you after? What suburb?

Try hard wiring the fuel pump using the 'how to', most aftermarket pumps don't like the low power supplied by the factory fuel pump controller. To test it you could run a temporary wire to the battery... What pump did you install?

Common RB issue, should have stuck with the VQ37. Have a search around FI section for head restrictors and external drains.

If you chopped them up into really small bits... But then messy boot.