scotty nm35

You don't want to change the knock sensor, it's a fairly big job as it's down in the valley, under the intake lower plenum. If it hasn't thrown a code then the ecu is simply trying to ruin your fun. Bypassing the solenoid will stop this, just get a joiner and plug the two vac lines into each other. (Don't replace them as there is a restrictor on one.)

I have quite a few new ones here you could have cheap. I definitely have the plenum end, the fuel side I would have to get from the wholesaler I think.

It does end up in the oil, but generally the oil is hot enough to evaporate it out. My catch can fills quickly with ethanol/water vapour over winter. The oil would barely be affected unless you do short cold start runs continuously.

I have an all stainless exhaust for this very reason, including the Tial stainless turbine housing. No rust in mine.

Rather than weaken it completely, you could simply remove it... If someone would make a cooler that bolts to the intrusion holes it would be stronger than the intrusion bar.

^^ +1 I had nothing but issues with Proflow teflon fuel hoses and fittings leaking, TorquesUK has helped me out many times with braided lines for fuel and oil without a problem. For oil I prefer the black nylon braid rubber cored hoses for oil cooler lines, as it is very flexible compared to the stainless braid. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-AN10-Nylon-Braided-Stealth-Black-Hose-1m-/170690866285?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27bdf7ec6d

You want to see the steam coming out my car's exhaust on these cold 2 degree mornings, it looks like a steam train, completely blocking my vision out the back window. I should get a pic for the lulz. Stao, I would like you to keep one of those reverse rotation Evo wheels aside for me, do you want me to pay a deposit or something? I need to find an evo 8mr rear housing I think, as my standard evo 7 rear isn't the 10cm version as far as I know. Perhaps it could still be a good thing? Anyone know what the ar of the 7's is?

The small cam chains will require a lot of work to replace I think, as the cams may need to be removed... I would get them to replace the chain and guides only if that's what they diagnosed. What were the symptoms, noisy chain slap? What engine are we talking about? The water pump can be easily changed without dropping the front of the engine, don't bother doing it now if it's still working.

You could try it on my car if you like, although I have R34 gtr front Brembo's with a slightly different disk offset I think.

I would start with pressure testing the intake, sounds like you may have a cooler pipe blown off.

I highly doubt the chain is stretched, I have seen many issues with the valve train but none were caused by a stretched chain. Who diagnosed it? What is the fault code?

Not sure I will be putting my emo7 on e85 yet, the tank is simply too small to be practical for daily duties, unless I stick a 20L surge tank in the boot... I might be trying a new Hypergear Evo highflow on it, with reverse rotation billet wheels. The 2.3 stroker kit is going to be strangled by the stock turbo otherwise. I need to keep it stock looking for now as it needs to be registered.

No need for cutting holes these days, there are many return flow options out there. I have been doing custom piping for many of the Melbourne guys, s14/15, 32-34's and c34 stagea if you have a local fabricator they should be able to whip up something legal like this... Keep the stock airbox and you are good to go.

If you live in Melbourne it's a no brainer. The only down sides are less K's to a tank, and cold starts can be difficult for the tuner to sort out. You should be fine if you go to Trent. Works out around the same cost as 95/98 to run, unless you do heaps of short runs. Be aware, it's hard to go back to petrol after running it for any period of time, even the smell of petrol shits me now.

It's the best option for getting good brakes under 17's, I still had some pad fade at PI after a few laps running A1RM's, but even the Akebono's will have issues stopping 2T continuously I would say. What would you like to know? I may be selling mine soon enough...

Don't worry, I will be. The turbo won't be laggy, the engine should have the .82 rear GT35 pushing 20psi by around 2.5k, but it may not be as responsive as it would be hanging off the manifold... The piping up and back is 2.5 inch so not too much area to fill.

The one in the wreck has gone, but I have never used mine if you want to PM me an offer Toby...

The stock 40 profile rear wide tyres will be larger, but in 245 40 20 they aren't much bigger than stock. I don't really want to go 35 profile... M35's have a huge guard to fill. I require 4 front rims which makes it harder to find a set. I might try Just Jap anyway, but they would want drug money for them no doubt. Perhaps if I explain the rims are $280 US each new they will come to the party... http://www.automotix.com/wheels_rims/2011-nissan-gtr-oem_alloy_wheel_rims-aly62519u30-product.html

Normally I sell them in a block cooling kit, but I have a spare s/h one here without the extra hose in the bottom if you simply want to replace the stock bleeder. (or keep this one as a 'just in case')

The cooler is 220 x 100 x 700, front mounted and sprayed black. You can't see it from the front of the car thanks to the large fins on the bar, and the long nose. I wasn't going to fit one, I wanted him to just run ethanol for det resistance, but the tuner was a little worried.

It is external gate... As the turbo is 4-5M back from the engine it shouldn't get too hot, there will be a heat shield over it all, and hopefully carpet back over the lot. I have to test it with an infra-red thermometer on the dyno first.

Still waiting for the Emanage to be installed...

No, it's not true, the lines should last for years on ethanol. The GTX is fine on petrol, they just like more boost than the gt's. when you go e85 you can just wind the boost up more. Still a good turbo for 2.5L, although I wouldn't want to go any bigger personally.

As it is just a simple valve body swap, perhaps Jetwreck could help you out? He does all the Trango kits for the M35 guys pretty cheap...

I have a blue one, if you can find someone to match the paint...