scotty nm35

The solenoid adjusts the boost, from 7psi on the actuator, to 14psi when bleeding pressure off. If the ecu sees cold water temp, overboost, knock and plenty of other errors, it will lower the boost temporarily which is what you are seeing. If you don't want it to drop boost, just bypass the solenoid, if you want to find the cause of the error, you will need to get the ecu read on a consult 3 unit.

I think so, but the back is still full of crap. It may take a while to get around to it. Yep still here, and I have another cracked one waiting for a repair also.

If the ecu is switching the solenoid off then no, it won't fix it. I would just bypass the solenoid hoses (as in join the two hoses together) it should then run 14psi constantly.

I remember when George road was dirt. Fark I am old. The speed hump idea has been going on for years around that area, like you say, it slows drivers down, then they have to speed up again. Not very environmentally friendly. The greenies should be all over it.

My spare engine, there goes my back up plan...

Sticking with 2.5 inch can allow this piping setup, with no holes under the battery. It can come in very handy when the cops pop the bonnet.

No, doesn't need it. The VQ25dd is almost exactly the same as the Det, unlike the VQ35de you PM fags run.

If you call and tell them the situation they may help out, they were very friendly when I went there.

Forget mats, ask them for a complete carpet to be made, they do molds... They would need the car though...

Airbag test? You mean get it on a Consult to check for faults? I can do that with my laptop. What does the structural test involve? I don't get why the VIV inspections are so difficult, they are the engineers signing off on the vehicle so shouldn't they get their hands dirty and check it for themselves? My brother had a bad VIV experience so I am hesitant. Do you have any pics? Non turbo I assume?

Good to hear mate, shame about the shoddy wiring from the gas install, he should hit them up for replacement carpet imo. Why didn't they simply run it through the large oem grommet? Not sure if I have any carpet on the wreck, I don't remember seeing it, the tan would look like balls in that car anyway. Perhaps find a carpet molding mob to make it?

It's a fine line, and can be a pain to get right. There is a good reason most of the bigger power cars run an external gate.

Spring force isn't adjustable, it is a set force/mm. If you decrease the length of the actuator arm you are forcing the spring to close more before the flap opens. It works, but not as well as replacing the spring with a stiffer one, and you could reach a point where the flap doesn't open enough to bleed boost off in the top end. (boost spike) Try it out, just make sure you have a good gauge, I have seen too many that read 3-5psi out. I would be hitting up Hypergear for a 14psi actuator. Install and forget.

Be careful, the gauge is not very reliable. If you bypass the boost solenoid you should constantly get 14psi or there abouts. If the solenoid is closing it is seeing a boost spike, knock or some other fault signal, as it should only be closed when cold normally.

Ok, well I can weld it up and ship it back, but I assume it will be quite expensive to ship...

Injector signal? Coil signal?

You could always ask a few tuners what a quick run-in tune would cost, something that could get you around on low boost until you save the rest of the coin. If they know you are coming back to pay the rest and finish the tune, they may be ok with it... It's worth asking anyway. Something tells me Trent may be a little busy at the moment.

The Varex mufflers are great, bit laggy when closed but fine for everyday driving.

I doubt it, you are close enough to maximum best torque anyway, perhaps 24-25psi... Do you have split dumps or something? Any porting done in the manifold or turbo opening? Is the top end tuned? A lack of timing and excess fuel can raise boost like that.

I agree, this would make for an interesting result, perhaps even with the 3582 hta? I found your graph again the other day Owen, I still can't believe the response.

I should be able to do it, you chug through a bit of gas welding Ti though, as both sides of the pipe need to be completely free of oxygen. Most Ti flanges will be pressed out of thin sheet, have you found a solid flange supplier?

I would only fabricate turbo manifolds for you, extractors are for teh gays. Claiming tax for servicing doesn't 'pay you back' you are still wasting cash hand over fist for what is literally a 5 minute job in the case of dropping oil in the VQ's.

^^ Exactly. Or bring me a few Jack cans and borrow my hoist.

The compression rods run from the hub back to the chassis, the bent black cast steel rod underneath and behind the front wheels. The large rubber bush is prone to failure but needs to be pressed out and pressed back in. I usually fit the offset polyurethane bushes in their place for better handling. For anyone in Melbourne I can supply and fit these, and usually have stock, Craig can help the sydney guys out. It will make a marked improvement to handling and turn in.

Doing your own servicing is the best option, that way you know it is done correctly.