scotty nm35

No, sorry. The entire passenger door has been sold.

The Gumtree ad said sold. lol. ^ This. Although I thought you said Evotards couldn't drive to save themselves...

They are 6 bolt mains, but I am worried about the head bolts, not the bottom end...

I have just finished that V8 Soarer I was working on Alex, is the 1UZ included in that list? I am worried that GT35 will lift it's heads off the block at 10:1 compression...

I think you are comparing the non turbo VQ's with the stronger VQ30det/VQ25det. Nissan always run stronger internals in their turbo motors, and the VQ35 rods are lighter afaik to raise the rev limit. Perhaps do a little research on the subject. The HR rods are a little stronger apparently. The figures you posted are approximates, and for a manual rwd car. It should be close if you can get some good fuel into it, like they run in Japan. Auto cars will lose around 30kw and awd will be lower again. My stock VQ25det would be running over 400kw if it was rwd and manual box. No extra outlay for me.

I did the fabrication on an auto s15 recently, should have made very close to 400kw. But then the engine blew on the dyno. lol. It's hard for a 2L 4 pot.

I think the last one I did had the valve under the plenum at the back, and I fabricated a pipe underneath to join in before the throttle. Theoretically you could run it anywhere but it becomes wasted space you need to fill with boost the longer the hoses. Try and keep it as short as possible.

The kit includes rear springs and adjustable shocks. The BC's are not harsh at all, well, that is until you fit poly bushes, swaybars and bracing... I am still very happy with the BC's four years on.

As long as the Oring seals it should be fine, are you using the square section Orings? Can you get a pic showing the difference? The Xspurt kit I sell bolts in perfectly on the 26 but the ID kit had a few issues apparently.

For a couple of hundred more the Coilovers are great value, and you get a free set of adjustable springs.

How was the oil supply? Did you drop the drain and make sure it was flowing well? It would be unusual not to work out of the box. Hypergear right? Have you spoken to him? Perhaps it's due to the T2 rear? I doubt it though... Gold coast? Looks like you are copping that rain band hard at the moment. lol.

I figure in this weather it wouldn't be an issue anyway, we can make up an airbox once it's tuned mate. I'm just glad it started, even for a few seconds.

I have one here if you need it mate, otherwise rip it apart and check the bearing numbers, they should be available at the local bearing supplier... I would be cleaning up the slip rings on a lathe and replacing the brushes if you can find them.

Gotta love rusty steel migged under the car.

What happened with the turbo? You definitely had a bad run, sorry I wasn't local I could have helped you out...

I can do the installs, but I think MV are the only guys doing swap over valve bodies. You are best speaking to them about pricing and core charges.

Good luck finding one second hand... Have you tried Amayama yet? Or wait for an Axis bar to pop up on import monster perhaps...

Yes the dash you have is a common failure. Yes you can change to the dual din and go aftermarket, which is probably the better option. M35 Stagea, V35 and the US G35 are all interchangeable. My suggestion is to look in the V35 specific section above and search for the faults and remedies, as there have been many threads on the subject already.

I had no issues at PI with A1rm's in my 2 ton whale, although I was trying to take it easy on them. I have done about 5 track days on them so far plus street driving. Tracking a flogged set of unknown pads is asking for trouble...

Sounds like a CV or wheel bearing failure. Drop the shaft and spin it by hand...

I would use a compressor and regulator, but you could perhaps use a bike pump and gauge? Just remember the pressure it takes to open the actuator is completely different to where it will crack open normally, as the manifold is filled with pressure when the engine is running. Best to simply leave it on low boost if bumping it up is causing issues, unless you tune it...

It's pretty easy to prove if Josh is correct, can you try a matched set of tyres?

You have an aftermarket attessa controller, what makes you think it will react 'normally'?

Did you read the Kando thread? External gate TD06 10cm will get you there, as would a Hypergear SS2.

All my track days have been segregated, sometimes poorly. Road cars and track cars are a bad mix imo. They wanted to put an MX5 in with the open wheelers because it had a soft top, luckily the hard top was available.