scotty nm35

Turbo 1UZ ftw.

I still had 1/3 of a tank when I got back.

The Iridiums shouldn't give you issues, they are designed to last 100,000k's. They cop a fair bit of flack from the 'copper plugs are better' brigade but I have had no issues at all with my NGK Iridiums. The Denso ones are not as good from my experience.

^^ This.

Matt, does your car have the brake cut mod done? If so, it will just be the stall converter being slightly too small for the turbo now it's highflowed. Some of this lag can be tuned out with the Emanage Ultimate.

I did nearly 300k's in the whale today, out to Wallan to pick up an RE5 gearbox and helping a mate move some workshop parts. It cost me about $15 per hundred k's which is pretty good going on ethanol I think, especially with the extra weight. Looks like this tune is fairly well sorted.

Promise, lol. Are they seriously up to ep 14 now? I have quite a few to watch. What episode have they got to with the subtitles?

Usually the ecu switches the ground so the solenoid probably does have 12v constant, try shorting the ground side to somewhere on the engine and you should hear it fire. Any chance you can actuate the cam advance solenoid output from the ecu without the engine running? Does the Haltech allow that in the software? The hard to start is probably just tuning at a guess, are the new cams aftermarket?

What work was done? Was it at the mechanics? The hydraulic switch on the cam cover has a small gauze filter on the bottom I seem to remember, this could be blocked I guess. Or one of the actuator pistons may be jammed? I haven't played with the hydraliclly actuated VQ35de as much as the electronically actuated VQ25 cam assemblies but they look similar enough on the camshaft. It seems unusual that you got the car back with the fault... As the cams run on oil pressure, the viscosity of the oil may play a big part. Any chance it has a thick 20w50 or something in it? That would cause issues in winter I think...

My suggestion is to drain the thick oil and additives out, flush the crap out somehow and fill it with Dextron III.

http://www.bride-jp.com/images/download/cartype-table/nissan.pdf Not hard to work out which one says Stagea.

Get on the Bride website, the M35 has it's own part number.

Needs 4.11's, this lag is killing me still.

I have been recommended by quite a few knowledgeable tuners recently to bump up my base pressure, (I am running 40 psi with the hose off) The bosch ev14's apparently spray a beautiful mist at 90-100psi but there aren't any intank pumps out there that flow much at such high pressures, certainly not the 255 twins I have currently. To test my theory (more pressure = finer mist = better power and economy) I would need a large mechanical gear pump off the fuel cell, I am thinking one of these Magnafuel external pumps which are rated up to 120psi. http://www.magnafuel.com.au/index.php/efimenu/efipumpsmenu/protunermenu Might be time to ditch the twin intanks I think.

Just solder it to the wires and try it out. Should be fine if you heat shrink the join.

Power coming in later sounds more like the actuators are flapping in the wind, try some more preload first...

So the injectors are fine buddy? Good to hear. Are you back to stock cams now?

PM'd.

You can't get all the fluid out without reverse pumping fresh fluid with a machine. Best way I have found is to do a shift kit at the same time, as that will change all but the 1L trapped in the torque converter. Dropping the pan alone will only change 30% of the fluid. I have a spare shift kit here if you want it...

I agree with GTscotT to an extent, as I haven't seen a one run balls out GTX result yet on high boost with cams and a manifold. Owenliberts result was exceptional for a GT imo, I spent a lit of time designing the dump and merge on that setup though, and I am sure it had more left in it, a GTX version would be interesting to say the least.

Pulses merging at a funnel and accelerating can promote a low pressure hole for the next pulse, but as Piggaz said, the turbine will chop the pulses to hell and the housing will smooth the pulses out due to it's restriction imo.

3 inch un-tuned side pipes. Get it out as fast as possible. Sorry I don't have any pics of the exhaust on the GIO car, I only took engine bay shots when I was working on it... Next time, just for you guys.

There is no solenoid, only a coil for the cam actuation. It is the blue plug on the cover you see. Perhaps you didn't seat the coil properly when you reassembled? There is a good chance the sensor/sensors are starting to fail, I would change both cam sensors (on the back of the heads) and see how you go.

It makes me even more pissed when I see the police car doing twice the speed limit to catch the poor motorist doing 10k's over (probably without realising it.) Oh, but the cops are trained better than us plebs...

Lol, what?