scotty nm35

Even at twice the normal price it's a bargain, still cheaper than most of your opposition. lol. I am very interested to see it's reliability now, great job Stao. I wonder if it's possible to get some inconel or titanium to machine the VNT nozzles out of... they aren't very big are they?

I think I used a pair of pliers.

If your gate flows too well (or is too big) the controller may have issues holding flat pressure, somewhere around 45mm would work well in your situation. It is all related to the pressure in the exhaust manifold and the angle the wastegate is mounted more so than the size.

Glad to see you got the VNT actuator working mate. I wished I could have hung around for the tune, I knew it would be something special...

Yep, I can definitely help with the dump/front pipe, and most other mods you require. Are you in Melbourne? PM me if you like for pricing. Hypergear can do some great rebuilds for the price, (he is the guy listing the rebuild on ebay.) Good strong product and service. There are other options available too, but their prices can vary from reasonable to expensive. You need to keep the turbo wheel size small if you want the car to behave on the stock map (without tuning it.) There is a thread dedicated to the AFM failing, believe me you will know what it is if it happens. It is the same part as the early WRX and a few other cars (not the VQ35) so a quick google with the P/N will find you one for around $150 I think.

Get it on a dyno and show us the torque graph. It's the only way to tell if it's a good map or not.

$2501.

My rims look good on it buddy.

I can fix the cam actuator without opening the engine or removing it. Definitely a common issue but more likely caused by running too thin or thick an oil. Of the many times I have heard the knocking from the actuator only once have I had to change the unit. The other times I simply filled the engine with a fresh batch of 10w40 and it went away. Get a set of BC coilovers, cheaper than replacing the stock shocks.

The trans warms up very quick when you sit there stalling it up, which was part of my issue in summer. I don't think it would be a problem this time of year unless you ditched the trans line through the radiator.

I thought the general consensus was 200kw by 4k was a good result... That sized turbo should just squeeze in there.

It's a lot easier to keep a car warm than to cool it down, mine was heat soaked and I could do nothing about it. Other guys were putting bags of ice on their coolers and engines to help combat the heat. I should probably get up to Heathcote soon now it's winter and get a time on the current tune, I am only going down in power from here. (perhaps back to a highflow soon) I have had my fun...

Can you elaborate on popping sounds? It could be lean popping... Or simply coil packs breaking down too. Try dropping the boost and see if it goes away.

It sounds like it should work, I never ran an extra restrictor in mine and I have a 13mm drain on a 90 degree, right off the bottom of the turbo. If anyone's should have leaked it's mine... Have you contacted ATP about it? What grade oil are you using? Pics are always helpful...

No idea mate, heavier lube and perhaps more preload on the clutches when it's re-welded? Did he do it in a vice?

Yep, shouldn't be a problem. I have a 350z LSD centre here, perhaps it's the same?

I could use the grinder and mig it if you want to shave the time down. May as well just weld the spider gears instead...

Enough talk, show us the graph already.

Yep, seems easy enough... Just have to take our time welding it back together.

Ever driven one Hamish? Put's a big smile on your face every time. lol He sold it long ago...

Want me to cut it open on the lathe like in the shimming thread? Looks fairly easy if you can find the silicone lube... Pretty sure you would have. lol.

It's going to spool a hell of a lot earlier than a gt35.

I would prefer nothing if it means dealing with 6boob. Customer service goes out the window if you ask for anything custom. There are hundreds of fabricators around the country that could make a decent manifold but none that can do it for $400...

It looks like a screw back type due to the shape of the piston. It also looks pretty rusted up.

Looks like an inside out Pringles packet.