scotty nm35

Sounds like there is water in the relay box behind the battery.

Good job there, although mine are silent, so I don't think the rubber was required. Here's my attempt for the Stagea. https://www.dropbox.com/s/c5p2f6v5tpfnpe8/Walbro%20Twin.jpg Beware the Walbro will possibly fail if you continue running it on low voltage...

Try running that power and see what temps your engine gets to. (Oh, that's right. Glass bottom end, sorry) If I was to run twin thermo's, the V35 setup you have would be the obvious option, but I have no need atm. I prefer to see results from my modification, not go backwards.

It certainly does mate, depending on the heat coming through the radiator. Making assumptions again?

Shit all over it how? There is no way they would outflow the clutch fan. You want to see the tornado it produces at 8000 revs.

Most tracks now have noise restrictions, the microphones will hear that horrid noise and alert the marshals to boot you out. No-one will feel sorry for you.

I have a pair of solid engine mounts here if you want to feel the engine more...

You guys are just jelly. I guess you need to remove the fan load off the top end to help make that extra 100 watts. Sad really. I can sell you a real fan if you like...

Run the stock pump or better a Walbro e85 pump hard wired through a relay and fuse to the battery, fit 1000cc ev14's with the correct 10.2mm rail adapters and enlarged lower Oring, ditch the injector resistor pack and have some form of adjustable ecu. And the critical part, find a decent tuner.

Please don't do it Adam...

Prove me wrong buddy. Due to it's size the stock fan flows massive amounts of air and is very efficient as there are no electrical losses.

^^ This, 11.5:1 compression is always going to be better than a low compression turbo off boost.

I know the 2.5 and 3.0 DD's do, they have the same ecu as us... Same plug...

You just love showing that porn off, don't you Bob. It's a little 'In your face' for us over the pond though mate, hence why I prefer low mounting and hiding the gate.

I don't pretend to weld alloy anywhere near as well as Ariel, but it looks like too much heat, try turning the gas down a bit too, the higher flows can cause eddy problems. You also need to make sure the joins are touching, the molten alloy doesn't like to fill gaps. There are some great tutorials on the Miller website but nothing beats practice. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/improving-your-skills/

Ok, I have a v35 to do this week, as he is living on borrowed time. (I have already cut the wire and not fitted the switch yet) I will try this out, hopefully it works.

It will definitely cause issues if it's wired to the stock pump power wires.

Twist, solder and heatshrink, making the joins staggered just in case, or solder the new wires directly to the plug if possible. Solid connections don't spark, crimped ones can let go. If the tank isn't hissing when the cap is released then they have removed the carbon canister. Naughty naughty. The filter on the walbro needs to be almost touching the bottom, and horizontal, or it won't work. Does your tank have a surge cup the pump sits in?

Are they rebuilding them to BB core? or bushed?

Yeh, just express them down and I will stick a restrictor in them somehow. It still won't guarantee a pressure output, but it will lower the pressure. Who would even check the turbo oil feed pressure...

You could perhaps pay Trent to have a quick look... Aaron, that gave me a headache you pr1ck.

Yep, I get them from either Proflow through the local wholesaler, or from Ebay in England if you can wait. (http://stores.ebay.com.au/Torques-U-K/Turbo-Flanges-/_i.html?_fsub=2445530012&_sid=81447352&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322) Both options will force you to run braided oil feed lines. If you are still running the banjo setup, perhaps welding them and drilling a 1mm hole will do the trick? Or I could turn up a brass reducer for you on the lathe... Perhaps r34 gtr banjo bolts are restricted? They run BB cores don't they?

How old was that post Craig? You gotta get out more... I gave up on the anti lag, it didn't help much as the stally has been returned to a stock stator, and there is no possibility of it ever making boost. Yours would be a different story. I had plans to test another method to pre spool the turbo, compressed air, but this isn't the car to test that theory on. lol. I can see mine going rwd manual very soon anyway which gets right around the launch issue. Or perhaps I will drop back to a highflow again for launch boosts, and so the gearbox isn't having quite so hard a time. Anyway, back on topic, the neutral signal will work one way or another, but if it's 12v then it will be a simple strip and twist, nice and easy for a DIY with pics. I will take some shots when I test this out on the next car. (Damn Leon, you beat me to it. Looks like we will need a relay.)

I know the maximum recommended oil pressure for a Garrett core is 65 psi but my VQ sits on 8-10 bar when cold, without a restrictor, and I have never seen any oil from either end Portaz. Was it both compressor seals leaking?

With the old diff in the boot? lol.