scotty nm35

Was the supplier Just Jap? Just contact them and tell them the spring is too short, they should get on to the manufacturer and help you out.

Good news Chris.

Walbro 342 - $100 Walbro 416L e85 compatible - $220 Either would need to be hard wired to the battery through a relay.

I was melting heat range 6 Iridiums within 10,000k's. The 7's seem to be lasting just fine. My tuner wants 8's in there. It really depends how hard you are leaning on the engine.

Great, so it is possible with a simple resistor to trick the ecu. Personally I would be leaving the pipe intact and simply blocking it off, just in case you need to go back. It only takes one cop to dob you in to the epa... Make sure everything looks as per stock.

The back window was smashed, so he taped garbage bags over it to stop the rain getting in. (Chinese bags, not Nismo ones...)

I will have to remove it and give it a clean before I will know it's condition, Craig stuck duct tape all over it.

I have one here, were you after the whole black cover with light, or just the light assy?

FYP.

No, sorry, the fuel flap solenoid has been sold. Not sure, I will have a look tomorrow. It is big but light so it shouldn't cost too much.

I have a second hand one here, I will ask the owner if he wants to sell it if you like.

The restrictor is in the stock bleed solenoid lines which I assume were removed to install the boost controller, either way the restrictor is only there to bleed the correct amount of boost off, if you remove it you will run almost unlimited boost, not have boost drop.

I think sometimes when I weld the spring mounts on the actuator it may grow in length slightly, (don't get too excited Craig, dirty mind.) This can be counteracted by simply sliding a washer or two under each of the mounting points on the front housing. There should be 3-5mm of preload which means you should have to slide the shaft out of the actuator 5mm before it will clip on to the wastegate arm, it will take a bit of force as the springs are so strong. It sounds like yours needs more preload in any case Ryan.

9psi? it sounds like you have a leak in the vac line, or yours is the only turbo not holding boost. Did your turbo have a larger wastegate puck or something? Perhaps the actuator doesn't have enough preload?

Probably, but there really isn't much need, our fire wall is double skinned, and tying the struts together doesn't have any effect on handling like the RB chassis.

Most likely, it is a common issue with the VQ's due to thin top rings for efficiency. The bores didn't look too bad when I had the heads off, but they weren't perfect. I have no choice but to live with it, as there are no aftermarket piston options for the VQ25det's.

Stock VQ25det running a GTX3076 at 32psi United Ethanol 350awkw Mine burns through around 1L in 4000k's. I am not worried in the slightest as it never blows blue smoke, no drips and the catch can is nearly empty. I am using the last of my GW Sougi 6000, and will be swapping to GW synx 6000 next change. I never check the dipstick as I overfill .5L and change every 4-5k.

What do you want? You mean the hub or the shaft?

I'm guessing the GTX3076 is good for around 400kw pushed hard on e85, and the GTX3071 around 350kw, or 300 on 98. Putting the power down is the least of your problems at 300+, there are many parts you will need to replace to reliably handle that sort of power, starting with the clutch.

Sounds like the non return valve in the booster line has failed. Nothing to do with putting tyres on it, unless the mechanics are retarded...

Mark, the ones I have on the wreck are perfect and are 6 evenly spaced bolt holes. PM'd.

My GTX3076 is nowhere near as laggy as a 35r, but the I upgraded from GTX3071 was much nicer to drive daily. It just depends what you want from your car and the sacrifices you are willing to make. The 1000's are longer than the 2000's and should drop in, but nothing is ever easy when it comes to performance mods...

The window and motor are gone long ago sorry, and the interior was swapped for Tan ARX.

My RS was around 1800kg stripped for the track.

The RE5 auto is a little weak for the task, but mine is going ok now it's built. A box is quite easy to transplant as you found though. The VQ's are very misunderstood, your engine was more advanced than the VR38. You missed a golden opportunity, uprev or not. The Link G4 extreme would have run it with some Guilt toy input...