scotty nm35

My BC's have been going strong for over 4 years, no issues here. My shocks were well shagged before I swapped. You can't just drop heavy lowered springs under your car and expect the stock shocks to handle it, even if they are in good condition. You need to match the dampening to the spring, easier with adjustable coilovers obviously.

You are right to be scared, the factory head bolts are good but they won't hold the head down forever. Personally I would go with the GT3076 unless you plan to change the headgasket and bolts down the track and lean on it some more.

Is this the car Guilt toy is tuning? Looks good, but I would have kept the VQ personally. Much more potential.

I think I have the dampener here on my spare 2.5dd if you want a cheap one. Have you priced it from Nissan yet? Could be the HP fuel pump too I guess. It would be good if you could get a fuel pressure gauge on the high pressure side, that would prove if the dampener and the pump are faulty or not.

I can't answer exactly, but the only difference between them is the pickup hole for the sock is on opposite sides. Make sure you hardwire it to the battery through a relay and fuse or the pump may fail or cause you issues at idle and cruise. Also, make sure you buy a genuine Walbro, the Chinese knockoff ones are nowhere near as good. Give me a PM if you want me to get you a price from my wholesale supplier...

It certainly doesn't sound good. I assume the oil banjo was drilled? What turbo is it again? And is it a bushed core?

I would try and clean as much as you can before you bolt the lower section back on, you really don't want all that crap in the combustion chamber. Blow it out with an airgun perhaps. Just remember one or two of the valves may be open... It will eventually throw a code anyway I think, as the temp sensor won't be seeing hot gas go past. Perhaps you can fix this with a resistor, not sure as I have never had my DD running.

Just blank it off with a plate between the egr and plenum, if you remove the pipe you would have to drop the exhaust manifold and weld/bung up the hole, you won't do that once you see how hard the manifold is to drop... If you remove the EGR you would need to drop a resistor over the plug so the ECU doesn't throw a fault code. Same with the temp sensor. You may have to remove the lower plenum and lower runners as both will have been heavily gummed up with carbon. There are butterfly valves in the lower runners to promote swirl in the chamber, make sure they are clean too. It sounds like your throttle is gummed up hence the warm start issue.

They are too small internally to hold many pigeons, but they do plumb back nicely.

Ethanol burns slower but an increase in pressure changes it's burn rate drastically. There is also more oxygen to help it burn. I have seen nearly 1000 degrees C in my manifold, so it certainly doesn't burn cold, just colder than dino 98. This is mainly due to extra timing though, as adding timing gives the fuel more time to burn in the cylinder, not in the exhaust. ^^ This.

The Turbosmart Kompact is only $175, and bolts straight on...

Aaron, you are wrong again...

Yes, it's still on the door I think, I will check it's condition tomorrow if I remember.

The rear view mirror is gone, as is the Airbox. The interior is stripped so the bolts will be there but underneath a whole interior stuffed into the back. What weather strip were you looking for? The one on the door?

I have a spare HP pump here if it's stuffed Jordan, Is the sound definitely coming from the pump? If so, it sounds like something is buggered inside it...

E-go mate, why didn't I find them sooner. Aust post can suck a big one. Send it depot to depot and get half price express, there is one in Campbellfield.

I'm already going, it's the Liberty guys meeting there tonight.

So you are running the 040? I have heard the mesh filter on the bottom blocks up restricting flow, I think some have cut the mesh out. Definitely run a direct 12V feed from the battery through a fuse and relay, using thick wire as GTSBoy mentioned. There is a how to in the DIY section.

Yes, the reg should handle it, you just can't adjust the pressure.

Pretty much, it runs on compressive detonation. Ting ting ting ting...

You need more fuel? E85 Walbro pump, Bosch 1000's and ethanol in the tank... Win.

I run 7's, tuner wants 8's in there. I was melting iridium 6's in 10k. Go the colder plugs with e85 too.

Rich on the track would be a good thing though.

Why would you need two solenoids anyway? Can't you just run the outlet to both actuators?

Welcome to M35 Stagea land where you can never launch. lol. You probably forgot to hang your tongue out on the left side.