scotty nm35

And when you checked the notches on the intake cams they were clean and clear of muck? Are these new cams? Perhaps the notches were done wrong if you have never used the cams... Also try disconnecting the Crankshaft sensor plug, it 'should' still start without it, if the camshaft sensors are working ok. Do you have the sensor's the right way around? I am fairly sure they are the same anyway...

I had a look through the V35/350z manuals, all three sensors should have 12v on pin one (measured to body earth), and earth to pin 3, (check the continuity with a meter.) The centre pin (2) is the sensor wire back to the ecu, check all these for continuity back to the ecu plug. Pin 13 for crank, pin 33 is bank 1 cam sensor, and pin 14 bank 2 Cam. If they are all fine there is another fault. Either one of the sensors is stuffed or it isn't picking up a good signal. (or the ecu is toast) You will need to get an oscilloscope on the signal and compare it to the service manual diagram. Make sure you check the Crank signal plate on the back of the flywheel/flex plate for chipping or damage. I assume you are using your original ecu?

Great day, thanks guys.

Have you tried to re-align the crank sensor while someone cranks it? Just loosen the bolt and move it around, see if it fires. The flywheel pickup could be in a slightly different spot due to crank differences... Was the engine from an auto or manual, and what's yours?

Very happy with my V35 18x8's, oem look with moar wide is always good, especially as they were cheap. Better off spending the extra coin on better tyres and bracing/swaybars imo

RTR dyno day, managed a 290kw run on their Mainline dyno. Very happy to get within 30-40kw of a tuned 35 gtr though with my stock baby VQ. The tuner had issues with 3rd gear kickdown, he would have nearly shat. Then wheelspin from not being strapped down well enough. Many sad people, it isn't a happy dyno.

The sensor from the new engine was 3 pin though, how did you wire it up?

You're certainly having a bad run with it Ryan, is it set up for map or still on the afm? Just drive the damn thing over here one weekend mate.

How many K's does it have on the odo James? There are 2 o2 sensors, changing them could help, but only if they are faulty or slow to react. Yours can be measured to see if they are working though as they are quite costly to replace. Depending on how you drive it that economy is good, it's about the best any of the turbo cars could ever hope for anyway. The only other thing I could suggest is getting the injectors cleaned, but I don't even know if it's possible... Edit: Perhaps check the cat converters to make sure one hasn't collapsed?

You will definitely need a wiring diagram, better if you can overlay the V35 and 350z wiring diagrams and see any differences. I will have a look for any info I can find, but I only have the V35 maintenance manual, not the wiring diags. If you can find a pdf and send me the link, I can have a look for you. What did you do with the oil pressure sensor, just use your old one?

I just had a look, I have a full set left on the wreck, but I would like to keep a couple for myself. How many are you after? To change them you need to drop the tapered pipe on top of the engine with the BOV attatched. That will give you access to all the coils. Have you changed plugs yet?

3mm isn't much, and there would be a little flex. Are you sure it hasn't been rubbing Rich?

I'm running 30 psi on the stock 12 year old coil packs and have never had issue with them, no way I would be testing out aftermarket ones, stick to oem imo. The Turbo part numbers are different to VQ35, I would assume the turbo coils have a stronger spark.

If you think that may be the source, wash all the piping and cooler out with kero and let it drip dry.

The piping will always have oil though it, as the breather goes back to the intake. (Unless you install a catch can) Usually if you can smell burning oil it is coming from the passenger rocker gasket leaking, as it drops down onto the turbo housing, then gets sucked into the heater fan.

I think you could sue Mercedes for making you a ghey farq. True story.

Commonly caused by a snapped exhaust manifold stud.

Have you tried a new battery? Looks like if it cranks too slow it may not fire properly. Did you miss any earth wires during the engine swap? Perhaps go over the whole loom just to make sure. Drop the sensor plug and ecu plug and measure the resistance of the cam signal wire.

I would give you a hand buddy but it's a fair drive for me. Perhaps you could drop the transfer case off to make it lighter? Then slide a trolley jack under it? You only need the top bolts in to hold it in position, then you could take your time...

You could send it back to Stao for an enlarged wastegate puck, he does that for me on the Stagea highflows now... Then you can open the hole right up.

You won't get much of a response in this section, head into the Stagea forum and ask your questions there Jim. Amayama would be the place for parts, genuine Nissan and cheap. I doubt replacing the o2 sensors will help much, these are big thirsty 2T wagons and you have the smallest engine available. Perhaps you can do a test on them before swapping to see if they are slow to react? The first thing I would be doing is removing as much of the intake as possible and cleaning all the carbon out of it from the egr valve.(I hate these valves) You will see the swirl valves in the lower intake then, and you can decide if you want to remove them, or simply hold them open? They are there to help improve chamber swirl and lean running on the open road though. You rarely get power without losing economy on the factory ecu especially. 91 octane would cause detonation (pinking), the factory ecu would detect this and drop out timing causing a soggy feeling on acceleration. You have a very lean burning high compression engine so it needs all the help it can get, especially now it is building up inside with carbon deposits. I would be using 95 as a minimum.

Same with the PCV, they usually dump oil into your plenum overnight causing a puff of smoke on first takeoff. If it failed though, it may cause much more issues. What oil did you put in it Paul?

The dyno is a very important tuning tool Craig, perhaps you should use one occasionally. Your engines would last longer. Last time it was tuned there was a tiny split in the vac line to the fuel reg I didn't see, which the map sensor also hangs off. It seems those sensors are quite important... So I had to get a re-tune once I found the split, as the current map went to shit. Luckily I got in just before the SAU dyno day tomorrow, so I wound the boost up at the same time. Tomorrow will be for da queenz. Jelly?

Our engine has an overboost function, but it kicks in at around 22psi. There is no way the stock 7psi actuator would ever allow that, no matter how much bleeding. A boost controller would bump it up as a midrange spike, but as the manifold builds pressure it will simply blow the puck open. I modify the stock actuators to allow much more clamping force on the puck, it should hold 15-17psi (depending on exhaust mods) with the factory bleed circuit removed. You can then bleed or control boost from there quite easily. I would suggest having at least a boost gauge to keep an eye on the boost as it is another level of protection gone. A hose popping off can ruin your day, it's happened to me. The stock turbo will take it for a fair while if it's in good condition. I ran mine for 4 months at 19psi and 226kw on ethanol. Just making sure the block banjo restrictor is clean is a good idea, or drill it slightly. I would save the 2.5-3mm drill bit for when the inevitable bush core highflow goes in. I have seen 10 bar oil pressure which is quite high, so I changed my mind on opening the restrictor too much. (Garrett recommend a 1mm restrictor for anything above 6 bar.)

Hampton Park. Sounds like it may be time for another cruise, there are a few new cars around to put names to...