scotty nm35

Is your engine breathing much Roy? I noticed the Gibson 32's ran a fairly small one, but the Sierra's ran an 8 or 10 litre pot. They must have had a lot of issues with air in the system. I have a Chinese one here to fit, just run small hoses to all the high points in the cooling system and the lower return to the bottom radiator hose or radiator drain bung.

Haha, hydraulic valve lifters? Get another mechanic, he will bleed you dry. I just fixed a VQ25dd with similar noises the other month, still going strong. No need for engine out.

Overheated? Sounds like you lifted the head on the dyno, did they check for carbon gas in the coolant? As for the price, it's a mugs game. I always have a spare engine here just in case.

Throttle controllers don't work, I have tried one. The throttle restriction is built into the ecu, and occurs when the brake signal pin is energised. It also latches for 3 seconds after the brake is released. You need to cut the brake signal wire to get 100% throttle, but this will eventually throw a CEL so you need to wire a switch across the wires also. Do a search, there are a few threads on the throttle restriction and brake cut mod. Highly recommended.

Must be one of those laws we are all just supposed to know about, like the 100's of other ones no-one is ever taught. I have never heard of this, other than my dad mentioning it once years ago, that you should slow to 60 for any intersection. I just assumed he was crazy as that would cause more accidents.

+1 ^^ I agree with Ryan, they are not suited to road cars unless you track the car every weekend. I am even thinking of swapping pads for trackdays so I can run road pads.

^^ This. Do it.

I had an oscilloscope on the output and the waveform looked ok, but the ecu didn't like it at all. The sensor needed a cabletie shoved under one side to angle it a little or the engine wouldn't fire. No idea why. Something must have moved... I wasted 3 days chasing that fault, the owner was ready to burn the damn car.

Mine was just under 2T on the Phillip Island track weighbridge, with two fat pricks (Aaron and myself) sitting in it, with a full tank. I have added a bit of weight with coolers and bracing, bigger brakes etc but the Bride seats are lighter than the stockies. I just weighed Craig's old electric seats, they are 24kg each on the rails.

Yes, but it will need to be hardwired through a relay. What type of Walbro are you putting in? I hope it's a 400L as the stock GTR pump outflows the 255L's.

Get the Osirus tuning software, that way you can take it anywhere. Trent (Chequered Tuning) would have a crack i'm sure, or try Cihan (Etuner), he will tune anything.

Nate, the issue I worked on was caused by the positioning of the crank sensor, try moving it around while someone cranks it and shim it into position if required. Otherwise you will have to start checking resistance from plug to ecu, or running temporary new signal wires to the ecu. Check voltage and earth pins for continuity. Do you have the wiring diagram?

I would be replacing the crank sensor if you can get one, even to borrow. If that doesn't fix the issue, you may have damaged the crank sensor wiring during the engine swap, it's very easy to wreck it on the steering rack when removing the engine. Make sure the crank sensor isn't rubbing on the flywheel pick up too, and that it's clean. Otherwise you will have to fault find the cam angle sensor wiring. Make sure the ecu is plugged in properly and that there are no bent pins.

It is indicating a fault with the ignition circuit, probably best if you start a new thread on it so others can find this same info. It is letting you know there is a slight resistance change somewhere inside a coil primary or ignition harness. Have you been poking around with the coils recently, or changing plugs? If not it sounds like you will be soon. Mine threw this code when I had the Emanage Ultimate wired in.

I can fabricate any exhaust parts, but I don't have a jig for them so unless you have a spare set to jig off I would need the car here. 100cpsi cats aren't cheap, around $150 - $200 for a good one each. Then I need to weld some laser cut flanges on once I get them CAD copied and cut. It's a fair bit of work for two feet of pipe...

I would be dubious of the the KM's. Good examples still go for $15,000 or more but the base model, with no aero kit and tan or cream interiors are harder to move. Make sure you set aside 2-3k for a turbo rebuild as a lack of servicing usually has them trashed by now, other than that check the usual rust in the underbody from salted roads in snowy areas.

I still want to try a new pedal sensor, but at $300-$400 for a varistor I will just unplug the cruise for now. Sadly, I don't think the fcon even uses the pedal sensor as an input now I think about it. It could be a bad connection in the cruise wiring too I guess. I really want to fix it as the cruise function is great... Limp mode is a pain, I am scared it will happen with the family in the car while trying to scoot across an intersection. It faulted 8 times on one trip just dropping the kids at school last week. Goddamn electronic throttles.

Must be you dodgy Sydney drivers then.

Unfortunately I have had no errors since unplugging the cruise, I would say too many things hanging off the pedal output wires will cause it to fault.

It's well known the pump will fail at the track without a cooler. Any small core will do, I am using a motorbike oil cooler but I have a spare small trans cooler here you could buy cheap if you want...

I could help with major servicing if you are interested, and look over the car for you to make sure all is well. PM me. I'm in Hampton Park.

Mail order tunes are shit no matter how much data logging you do.

Contact Prince Skyline, he has one for sale.

They work, but mine sometimes threw a tps code, just like the cruise control. All they do is adjust the throttle curve, it will never get rid of the restriction. Only the brake wire cut mod will fix that.

Phone doesn't show sig? Get on a computer.