scotty nm35

Owen's car Scott? Just look at that response.

Whatever happens, it will be a solid performer Mark, and more responsive than most 300kw turbo's. I look forward to getting a good result for you anyway. Will you be running it up on ethanol mate?

Yep, works on any turbo in the stock location (low mount). 80mm alloy should be good for well over 350wkw.

6boost and plazmaman both reduce response don't they? What smaller turbo do you suggest for 300kw on 98 Artz?

A pic of one of my intakes , sent in by a customer. They suit the stock afm, airbox, bov and breather return. Painted black you can't pick it from stock.

I think you guys need to revisit Owen's dyno graph with the .82 split rear. Now how to find it... Here is the petrol one, I couldn't see the 350kw ethanol graph. Have you seen a 76 spool like that before? The 6boost with it's large runners wouldn't help it out much, believe me. Even Stao mentioned the stock manifold is a response monster.

More likely the internal gate leaking Disco.

The only way I have seen aftermarket exhausts stop the drone is using Helmholtz chambers to reflect the drone frequencies back. Some of the better Japanese companies use these in their Jasma designs, also seen on the ark test pipes I believe. As it requires a large amount of R+D they are usually the more expensive systems.

It is very hard to flush the coolant system, unless you know where the drain bung for the block is located. The thermostat isn't hard to remove and test, mind you the kettle doesn't get the water hot enough, you would need to stick it in a pot on the stove. I would try a thorough system bleed, topping up the rear bleed point (heater pipe near the firewall) when cold, you may need to do it a few mornings to get all the air out. Beware, the bleed point is a plastic Philips head, and is very easy to strip.

A bright blue silicone bend won't be conspicuous, lol, but seriously if you run a silicone 90 off the front it will suck in on boost. You need a stainless or alloy hardpipe intake, that much has never changed.

I realise you are speaking generally, but this setup has specific goals, and I doubt a T4 is required for that 300kw target. It must utilise the stock mani, and the 3037 has already been purchased, other than that he wants the best spool possible, and I think the .82 split housing will do that (from what I remember of Owen's graph) It's not rocket science. A full race manifold would blow the cost out 10 fold. lol. As for cracking, Artz has tracked and thrashed his Scotty modified Kando for years with no issues. I can't see sticking a divider into his design would change anything.

So my bolt on viable option might be of interest to a few of you? We shall see how it turns out I guess. This one will be single 45mm gate with a single split feed, (similar to BW's internal.) Cost wise it's just as cheap as Artz's Kando external with perhaps better spool, hopefully comparable to Owenliberts results. (all in by 3500) Will be interesting to see how it goes anyway.

Not enough clearance for the bonnet, so just don't run one... lol.

So I keep getting told. Why would a fabricator bolt on internal gate turbo when there are so many other avenues to take.

Yep, SAU sticker on rear drivers side window.

Do you see any drawbacks? I recall there is a slight split in the divider of my manifold at the flange, is the rb one the same? It shouldn't affect things too much though. As for evo footprint manifolds, I will be heading down that path soon with my 2.4 stroker 7. I was going to make a t3 mani for a gtx3071 but if this works as I imagine, I might try it myself. I don't like internal gates.

No Scott, not 'cheap' manifolds, he asked me to modify the split housing for external gate, so it can be bolted to the stock manifold. As the power goal is a responsive 300kw it should pose no restriction... Kyle won't change his design because it would mean making a new jig.

Mine did this when the head gasket blew but more than likely the coolant system was never bled properly. Where are you located?

His fabricator should have no problem with it. For someone that was looking heavily at exactly this as a cheap and worthwhile solution 6 years ago, you seem to be pushing the expensive manifold options now, any reason you dropped it?

No, just get a manual (mechanical ball and spring) controller, they are $30-$50. Set and forget.

Ah, transfer case cooler. I have never seen one of those before, I can't remember if the Gibson cars ran one... Now I am wondering how hot my transfer case is getting.

Stuff it with stainless steel wool and plumb the vent into the intake, close to the turbo.

Black m35 rx at the Beechworth bakery in Healesville today, you parked beside me.

What fuel pump did you use? Was it hardwired through a relay?

The Jasma plate has a numerical code, which corresponds to the manufacturer. If you do a google search you will find an english list.