scotty nm35

Pods are for fags... Oh right...

I have one of these too.

I use these guys, they can sort you out. http://www.injectorsonline.com/indivprod.php?cid=79

I have an ethanol drum (44) with proper nozzle here you can use, air powered fast filling... Doeeet.

I can't see the intake temp sensor readings... Good result Alex, is there any reason you stopped there? Or just limp? As this is a track car, may I suggest e85 ftw?

I don't know about 350z but the early wrx uses the same sensor, as do the Maxima and a few other cars... Just type the part number into Google.

Needs moar boosts.

Oh, sorry. The plenum side should be 14mm I thought.

You need an adapter from 14mm on the injector Oring, to 10.5mm on the rail. There are a few suppliers around, but I know 'injectorsonline' can help you.

Mechanical.

External G3, should be a good workout for my intake Darren. Get better soon, I want to see the results.

I tried Redstuff, was disappointed. Same with Endless.

I have the V1's on my Stagea, still going strong after 4 years. Just do it, you will be hard pressed find a negative comment from guys that have owned them. Great value for money.

What's so hard to work out? The Neo is already 14mm topfeed.

Give me a PM Ken, I can help you out, i'm in Hampton Park.

There are two parts to the Attessa system, which part are you replacing fluids in, the clutch or reservoir? Both will take automatic transmission fluid, I use Nulon Synthetic.

But limp mode does cause an engine light to be displayed, and that means the ecu has a story to tell. I would be checking that out first before changing the AFM.

There is always a few on ebay... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MAC-Solenoid-Valve-3-way-35A-ACA-DDBA-1ba-12V-5-4-watts-Great-boost-Solenoid-/190582809108?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5f9ee214&_uhb=1#ht_1963wt_902 I have a few here but they are 24V and would require a new coil, around $15.

Did you play with the throttle curve at all Ryan? If so, I would put it back to stock. Mine will fault occasionally, but it is still running fine most of the time as a daily. The stock ecu is checking the voltage outputs from the pedal and throttle continuously, if it detects even a slight variance it will fault. As the pedal voltage goes through the cruise and the Fcon it wouldn't take much to affect the resistance. You could try cleaning all the plugs, and perhaps disconnecting the cruise and see if the Fcon works again?

The 3 pins on the right should be the plug pins. I usually use solder wick to get the old solder off, then re-solder, but just re-soldering works.

I had two resonators installed in mine, the drone was still there, all they did was make the exhaust sound tinny and weak. The wagon is a speaker box, and you are inside it. The only exhausts I have heard that don't resonate/drone are the Fujitsubo Legalis and Nismo for the M35, surely there is something similar around cheap you could pick up S/H? With enough trial and error you could weld in a Helmholtz chamber, as Fujitsubo use. It is a tuned dead end muffler, which can take out certain frequencies of noise, specifically that freeway drone.

Hotdogs or resonators do sweet FA, you need a proper mid muffler.

I don't think worn syncro's in 10 year old boxes mean the box is weak, comparing the gearset to the s15 is just ludicrous. A 1J will make it handle like shit. Plenty of evidence out there if you had researched. The VQ will sit back behind the wheels enhancing the handling and is much lighter for similar power potential as stock. (Much greater when built.) Each to their own they say.

You can tap and grub screw the bleed hole, it works ok, but drivability will suffer. It can shudder a bit when backing off from boost to a light cruise. The factory put the hole there for a reason, to make it drive smoothly. If you are still on the stock ecu, it's best to leave it alone.

You staying in Alex's tent this time Craig?