scotty nm35

I just fitted a Legalis system on Cory's Axis, damn I love that exhaust. Quiet and deep on cruise and idle, opens up nicely on boost, and legal decibels. What more do you need? Flows over 300kw too.

For the street? Even GSL will tell you you're crazy. Definitely a track day pad.

I have a Z33 box and clutch I can sell you for half that. VQ30det's are cheap as chips.

Destroying that coin can put you in prison Stao. Great result, I should have dropped down instead of trying to talk on the phone. lol.

You shout lunch and I will drive you to Bayswater Shan.

VQ25dd are just as easy to modify/tune as the VQ25det, they are in effect the same engine, using the same cam actuation, but the DD has special swirl chambered pistons and high compression. If you were happy to run e85 you could still boost it, the rods etc should be good for some big power (same as the turbo rods) All the turbo gear off the det would bolt on... Don't discount it as a performance base, I was planning to run my spare DD in a turbo race car not long ago and the Siamese runners intrigued me.

Interested.

You can't check the resistance of the secondary coil to prove it's working, coils break down from leaking plasma through cracks in the epoxy. I have some spares here if you want to try swapping them around...

^^this. I can make 3 inch stainless dump pipes, and front pipes. PM me for info. Save up and get a Jasma Japanese cat back for the rear, everything I have heard locally made drones badly.

Hijack a tanker, Mad Max style. lol

QFM HPX are the go, or the A1RM's for the occasional track day. (front only.)

Still a weak ass engine though. The VQ30det is good for well over 400kw stock. I prefer the 4 door personally, not because it looks better, but because it's unassuming. You would never get pulled up in it, unlike the coupe. There are too many down here with blacked out tail lights and bald 20 inch rims. You are ruining it for yourselves.

Is it the rear? Do you have Hicas and it's playing up?

VQ30det + Nistune + 6spd manual.

It will be the passenger side rocker gasket leaking onto the turbo. Very common due to the turbo heat. You can make a 3 inch bung with an air fitting on it, to clamp into the afm rubber pipe, pump the whole intake to 20psi using a compressor, its the easiest way to check for leaks.

Very unlikely to be a coil, they are fairly hardy on the VQ's. Sounds like a boost leak or dirty AFM.

The intake can suck shut approaching 200kw, sleeving the accordion section will help keep it open, but it will still suck the lower bend in approaching 250kw. I make an alloy 80mm intake if you are interested, with bov/breather fittings to keep the stock look. Otherwise just find a competent fabricator close by to make one up. It will only improve power and response, well worth the small cost.

Not sure how much room yours has down beside the radiator, and if you want to compromise on pipe diameter, but this is what I do for the s14/s15. Trim the shroud and run stainless down beside the fan. I have also done a few custom installs, here is one with the aircon removed and the pipes through the side of the radiator. With a FFP this would be the shortest possible outcome. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/190267-summary-front-mount-intercooler-options-piping-layouts/page-3

Like I said, Proflow sell it in 1/2 meter lengths so any supplier should be able to get it. Not cheap though.

I'm guessing the gearbox temp sensor/wiring is playing up then.

There isn't much to see with the cooler piping in place.

It won't go into overdrive unless the box is up to temp.

The bov return hose can be quite small, and you could use heater hose if you wanted to keep it a low profile. Have you got a pic of your engine bay? My intakes are setup for 32-34 gtst so it may need mods to fit. Notice the angle the bov return enters, it needs to face the compressor wheel.

Fuel light or engine light?

+1.