scotty nm35

Looks good, is that a stainless rear housing?

The best size is a 5 inch sidepipe, but we need to compromise for the street. Noise for the sake of it is just asking for police attention. I run a 3.5 inch stainless system, it is only just big enough for the power I am running atm. I use a Varex muffler to control noise when I go through an RBT etc, otherwise it is actually fairly quiet at wot when open. It does drone though. I only use stainless as mild systems rust out too quickly, especially with ethanol. I had the Varex running a boost actuator, it didn't work well though as the exhaust was too restrictive when the valve was closed. Response was affected mainly, which you don't want on an auto. Hopefully your design works better Jet, perhaps just a spring actuated flap might be a better option?

No, it probably has another 40psi in it, I know because the 71 ran well over 50psi for a few days when the controller lines popped off. My point was, pressure does not equal power, or airflow. That and every setup is different. I would guess the auto is sapping at least 30kw more than a manual box would in my situation, and another 30kw if the converter isn't locked, which all turns to heat. Hence my track heat issues.

lol.

Can you state your desired power output also as this will have more impact on the noise and expense of any system you require. For stock power the stock exhaust is the pick, with a decent front/dump. Most aftermarket Jap systems cant be beaten on noise V flow.

It's getting trucked over here soon, cheaper than shipping it around. The market is in the eastern states Simon.

Those power gains will change as you bump up the boost, eventually you will lose power for every psi. The turbo can only flow X amount on your current setup regardless of boost once the compressor is maxed. Making the intake/exhaust flow more efficient will move the compressor limit higher, but pushing a turbo that hard has consequences as i'm sure you understand, which is the main reason I upgraded.

I thought we started answering that question in your previous thread? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/420070-performance-chips/ I don't think anyone has modified the DD to a great extent, most guys would have gone for the 3.5 manual as a performance base. Would you like some pics of the swirl valves I believe hinder power production? I could possibly supply you with a modified runner if you wanted to give it a try, but you will need an Emanage Ultimate or similar to realize any gains. Shame you are so far away, I could help with most of the performance mods required, even the Stagea turbo manifolds could bolt up for high compression e85 turbo fun.

^^ This. Lol at deciding to run blow a though afm simply because the bov return was welded on the wrong angle. Put it back to stock and run one of my intakes before you get defected.

Don't get me wrong, the GTX3076 is still making more power on 10psi less boost, but the transient response is woeful compared to the 71. (and I ran a 1.06 Tial rear on the 71 compared to a .82 now) I maxed out the GTX3071 on 342kw (e85) through an auto, god knows what that is with a manual box, the GTX3076 is now making 350kw at 24psi with the gearbox starting to slip, I can only guess this is a 400kw on e85 capable turbo if someone wants to lean on it hard, but as I am gearbox limited atm, I wish I had the response back. I am wondering how much extra energy the 1.06 rear would give the GT30 turbine, and what effect it would have on the compressor. If only it was easier to swap housings I would give it a shot for interests sake as I feel it would improve the transient response times in the upper revs at the expense of 100rpm spool. No point until I can put it to the ground though.

I have had no issues with my Xspurts in 3 years of daily driving on e85. I can only go by what my supplier Aznew said, they have never had a return on an Xspurt 1000 since they started selling them. ID's? never used them, perhaps they are running some solution through them for the flow test which may coagulate when mixed with ethanol? Nothing a clean shouldn't fix, the filter is near the pintle tip in these ev14's so perhaps back flushing them will clear them up? I would be grabbing that bucket...

You may lose some functions but it should still work off the G sensors, even with no throttle input (if it is even used.) Which standalone are you planning to use? There are plenty of proven units, even for the auto's if you look around in here.

Cheap cheap. I might pay three years in advance, great deal.

And you should have probably returned them, as even Bosch advise less than 2% variation. You sure they were legit?

You have a V section, what more do you need? Us poor m35 Stagea guys are stuffed in with the RB crowd...

I used a Ford battery in mine, a cheap 650cca one. Had to change the terminal clamps over and modify the battery holder a little but it works well. Plenty of room in the tray for it.

I did a little test today, removing the cooling thermostat and refitting a gutted one for extra flow. It still hit 90 degrees oil and water, is there any way to cool these VQ's down? It did drop temps by a few degrees but nothing major, it was definitely more stable though after a squirt. Next attempt might be relocating the oil and trans coolers to the sides of the front bar instead of blocking the radiator, using the fog-light holes as air ducts.

Was that on e85 though? You have 30% more flow requirements on ethanol than 98... Anyway, as much as I hate having a fuel gauge in my engine bay, it has helped me diagnose many issues.

Perhaps you have reached the stock reg's limits? They only have a 2mm or so hole in the pressure valve.

Can't edit my post for some reason... What base fuel pressure are you running, and at what boost?

A simple fuel pressure gauge would help diagnose, if it drops pressure in the top end you either have something restricting the fuel flow, or the pump isn't keeping up.

I have an open banjo on the block with a 3an fitting into braided teflon hose, the filter is then inline before 2 x 90 degree bends into the turbo, no restrictors as Garrett turbo's usually have a perfectly sized restrictor built in. I can't get to it, but I don't seem to have to, it was clean when I swapped to the GTX3076 from the 71.

Better, e85 is cheap torque gains also, which are even harder to come by. On it's own the best mod you can do on a turbo car, if you can live with less K's to a tank, and have a pump locally. The GCG is a bit of a mismatch turbo, mainly due to being stuffed into the stock housings. Best bet is to pick up a proper Garrett GT3076 and sell the GCG off, but then you need a new dump, intake, lines, external gate perhaps... the list can go on forever. Do some research before you jump in, as jumping up in power again from there may force you to replace all those parts again.

Isn't there a poofy lifting thread already? If you don't lift in multiples of gearboxes, I don't want to read about it phags.

If the box was overfilled it will have spewed out the breather, in which case don't worry about it. I would get under it and check though...