scotty nm35

There are other ways to scratch a little more out of each setup, but it gets expensive for small gains. Larger exhaust will help, as will larger cooler piping/intercooler, at the expense of response. Porting the head and cams will gain some more power also, with the same response losses. If you want more power than that, it is usually suggested to jump a turbo size or two as it's cheaper, but everyone has a different setup, funds and goals. The hassle is the stock rear housing, depending which one you have it will restrict the amount of airflow you can get out the back, thus limiting your power.

Generally you will be looking at a 40wkw gain with e85, so I would say around 280 - 300wkw at best.

I agree, but very few turbo builders will show interest once the turbo is shot. John and Stao are the only ones it seems that are genuinely interested and willing to go out of their way for the customer. After seeing the crap built up in some of these engines, I can imagine the ease of which a small piece of crud could enter the restrictor and limit oil to the core. (which is why I used a small inline oil filter on my Garrett.) Most noisy turbo's would be caused by this lack of oil imo, only ball bearing cores are susceptible as bush ones require larger flows (bigger/no restrictor, more chance of the crud making it through the turbo.)

Makes it a little hard to guarantee a turnout though. We will need a minimum of 15 cars to go ahead with this I believe, the rest could pay on the day perhaps, if there are spots left.

I feel the GTX3071 was the pick of the GT30's, now I have upgraded to the GTX3076 I feel the turbine just doesn't have the energy to spin up the oversized compressor. I'm betting the GTX3576 would be the better option. I am also interested to see the results from the GTX3067, but I doubt it will see much over 300wkw without a gut-full of boost and ethanol.

Yep, M35. Turbo's fail from oil supply issues and heat/tune issues. Which one caused yours to blow Damo? Blaming GCG won't help anyone, if they had done a poor job you would have known about it in the first week.

No point matching them, then machining, the flow would change after machining. I have seen the machining done, on the lathe with a carbide bit at the Melbourne Xspurt wholesalers. All they do is cut the tip off, no rocket science involved.

Which ones, there are a few styles. Can you post a pic? I assume you want the 6 straight spoke rims? With tyres? Obviously not at that price...

More fuel = less economy.

I hope they are working on modern ecu replacements, targeting their market at 20 yr old cars with multiple plugin options seems... pointless in a business sense. Good to see they are doing an RX8 ecu, but piggyback? Adaptronic seem very approachable, perhaps there is hope for the humble M35 Stagea yet. I will have to make some enquiries.

It's ok, I swapped some other parts off yours while you weren't looking. SO an oem sensor is $150? Are the aftermarket ones reliable?

Some high speed photos/video of the spray patterns and droplet size between a few injector styles would be interesting to see though, if the test was done properly (same pressure/frequency etc.) I want to see what the 1000cc ev14's look like at 80psi and 1500cc flow, without looking inside the runners at full noise.

Lol. Artz sending you messages too Trent? As far as I can tell, all the Bosch ev14 injectors are the same, some are just flow tested. They all seem to machine the small orifice's away to allow more flow from the single jet behind it. How it's machined wouldn't matter much imo.

Either really, RWD is obviously much cheaper and easier, with the Z33 box. Then you would need a Haltech/Link ecu to run the engine. I have a box and some conversion parts here if he wants to try.

I assume you just ditch the injector box and directly wire them to the Autronic. Perhaps you should check with your tuner... Shame the thread got cleaned, I read an interesting rebuttal this morning... http://www.injectordynamics.com/BullshitEpidemic.html

Did you hard wire it through a relay to the battery? The stock electrical system drops the voltage on cruise and idle and the Walbro pumps don't like it much. Search for the 'how to'.

Needs to be coated on the inside and outside, which is the main difference between intank and standard efi hose, which only has the coating internally.

Nice avatar. Snatched. lol.

I use standard neoprene rubber intank hose, proflow gear I think.

Is yours an RE4 box?

Just piss them off, even when open they limit the flow to the valves. I am interested to see how much difference it makes but I assume you would need a tune afterwards, or at least check the AFR's. The Stagea turbo VQ25 would be the obvious pick for a transplant, you could get a good engine for around 2k, plus an Emanage Ultimate to tune the mixtures. It should all just work off the stock ecu, as the cams actuation (and most other parts) are the same. I was planning to buy a cheap V35 4 door for the same reason but bought an A4 quattro instead.

I don't imagine it would be hard, but the drivers side rear copped it in the smash so no lights from that side. Sorry.

Put the bike on Leigh.

There is a fair bit of work in that I imagine Andrew, is that one you did? Good work.

lol.