scotty nm35

Yep, even the 350z kit is the same. I have a front rebuild kit here if you need it...

Go the Ultimate Paul, and get it new, the older ones had issues. Should be around $700 on fleabay including the universal loom. Isn't there a better ecu option for auto's though?

In. Now to work out where all my boost has gone, so I can put on a good show. lol. I just paid Aaron. Keep an eye out on the sau account.

It's 3 screws to get the thermostat out, then dunk it in boiling water to see if it opens. You will need to get the water up over 85 degrees before it does, so do it in a pot on the stove. The mechanic is ripping you, and probably doesn't even know where the thermostat is on the VQ.

^^ This, if done right. All Stao's attempts have been at 90 degrees to the flow I think, mine (Artz's) had a nicely die ground entry knife edge with a curved pipe. There is no way the exhaust flow can do a 90 degree bend while travelling at the speed of sound...

Not the case, it is an electrical problem but it won't be related to the ecu, more likely a dodgy relay in the box behind the battery. I have heard of too many mechanics spinning shit recently, they don't understand the VQ's fully, or the newer electronics, and seem to make up crap about the issue, usually to part you with your cash. (Anyone that tells you the VQ25 requires a full cam chain rebuild kit when it makes noise is probably full of it.)

Yours is on here Artz, and I have done a few coming up beside the radiator, it's quite tight through there though. (works better on the S14/15)

Have you bolted the battery down yet Mike? I suspect it may be sliding around causing the plates to short. Just snap the side braces off the oem battery clamp.

Either go with a return flow, or you will need to get creative. I have fitted many different cooler setups to Stagea's and Skylines, all of which are on here somewhere if you search.

I found them absolutely useless. When I asked for the heavy springs I couldn't believe I had to buy 3 new expensive springs for 26psi, and that was the highest they had. Then no-one couldn't even supply them. I was so pissed I actually got some after market springs made up, which they proceeded to explain would void my warranty, and possibly damage the gate (bullshit) Seems even the Turbosmart springs I ended up buying weren't up to the task. In contrast, the Tial gate I bought for a customer recently came with every spring I could ever want, and a water cooled housing, which would have saved the springs i'm sure. I will check it out sometime Dale, I don't think it's leaking though. It's a pita to get up there.

If you put it on 18 degrees it will only blow air I have found. 18.5 it will blow cold. If it isnt that, perhaps take it to an aircon specialist?

I had thought that Dale, but with little to no carbon build-up in the exhaust it wouldn't be likely. Plus the boost curve would be all over the place once it opened. It is literally holding a flat 19psi now.

I did a boost leak test today, no issues. Now I have no idea why the external gate isn't holding boost. The 45mm Turbosmart gate has 26psi of spring in it, with no controller, and is now only holding 19psi... Perhaps the springs have softened? Bloody Turbosmart...

Sad to hear you're leaving us Jules, you would have to be one of the first M35 owners on the forum, back when only Cam and Craig were around to talk to. Personally I would have sold a kid...

What sort of issues? Mine switches off in slow traffic due to the condenser being too hot, thanks to the hot coolers in front of it. It runs fine while cruising though.

But flanges cost money.

I think I have one here, I would have to check on the wreck. PM me if you can, and let me know what parts are missing.

Make sure the battery terminals are clean, and everything is tight in the compartment. If it still happens, it may be a relay/plug/moisture in the power distribution box, behind the battery. Was it raining up there recently?

I already have one, but it is damn useless as it is way out. I would prefer to have a 180kph dash with accuracy. I would like the triple gauges white too if they can do it...

The software is translated, isn't it? I have a spare unit here if you need it, otherwise perhaps you could pull it apart and clean the mechanism?

Can you simply stick a scope down the plug hole and compare the crowns? You can pick the cameras up fairly cheap now.

I have a spare here... Perhaps they could get the speedo dial more accurate too?

Beau, don't bother with the turbo timer, they aren't required with water cooled turbo's. (even tracking them). Your insurance company won't cover it if stolen due to fitting an immobilizer defeating device either.

If it's direct injection, cleaning the intake properly (off the car), blanking the EGR valve and flushing the engine would be a good starting point. Look to get rid of the intake swirl valves, these block off half the intake ports to promote swirl in the chamber at lower revs. I think good gains can be had here at the expense of a little cruise economy.

Just search, there are many overheating threads for VQ series engines and they all point back to poor bleeding procedures. (the coolant system is fail in VQ's) If you can hear a waterfall behind the dash, or if there is a cupful of coolant missing from the system, the whole cooling circuit can airlock causing no coolant flow. Let it cool and top it up fully from the rear bleed point as a start. You may have to re-do it a few times. Here is a recent thread on the subject. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/418084-help-cracked-headhead-gasket/?hl=%2Boverheating#entry6713914