scotty nm35

That could explain it Alex, as the later RE5 boxes had the tcu in the gearbox sump.

Those are the numbers they ordered in, you are welcome to try if you like... Why wouldn't they have the boot separate? It's usually the part that fails.

Yeh right, lol. 3 year old posts don't warrant responses.

V35, fairly easily with the 3.5 using a plugin (platinum pro), hard with the 3L and 2.5. I think the Link would be the better option, and much cheaper than the Motec. M35, almost impossible with the 2.5det at the moment, no-one has managed to fit a full standalone on the det afaik let alone a manual box. I would be going with the R33 gtr box personally, as they are 1/4 the price. You can buy an adapter plate from for VQ to RB conversions for around $1k US. Lot's of custom work required, and the V35 manual interior parts required are hard to come by.

I don't think an obd2 scanner will work on the early 250gt, only the 3.5's I think. My re5 always drops into 4th, no matter what gear it was in.

The M35 is obd2 but not the compliant version. The 350z is, and the VQ35 version of the V35 should be... What is it you would like to know?

Last time I was there, Stao mentioned to me he wasn't sure how the oil cooled turbo's would hold up like at track temps, I will be interested to see how you go with it.

I think I have a pair of 32 gtr rear callipers floating about Nick, they didn't fit my whale... Make me an offer.

Do you have a 4 speed box? Check the plate in the engine bay, it should say RE4 or RE5. It still drops down to first when you pull the gear lever though, right?

Lol, yeh, I do mate. PM me. What happened to yours? The dreaded leaky plug syndrome?

External gates seal better allowing higher and more stable boost, they also flow much better allowing more exhaust and hence power. Just plumb it back into the exhaust, please. Easy to bump up the spring pressure also, which means no need for a controller.

You are really only cleaning up the exhaust path, anyone with a die grinder can do it, but it's time consuming and messy. The other (more expensive) option is Power porting, or pumping an abrasive through them. http://www.autospeed...orting&A=111154 Give me a yell if you can't find anyone local to die grind them, (I'm south east Melb) but any good fabricator or performance workshop will probably do it for you. While working on the Gibson GTR I realised they used cast factory manifolds, with large hangers to hold the turbo's up when the metal went soft from heat. Smart move I thought and better than the little brace underneath that usually holds the turbo's up.

I have heard many a VQ make noise from the cam actuation, I wonder if they use the same design for the advance mechanism... They knock within a certain rev range and the noise disappears with the vct unplugged.

Just ditch the rail, get a Neo rail and drop some 2000's in.

Of course, mine are black. The Stock Nissan ones are plastic mesh and don't seem to clog like the fine aftermarket Walbro ones.

Notice the part for the boot has a star, not a part number. Nissan ordered some of the other part numbers in for us but none were the inner boot. A driveshaft shop would be your best bet. Or there are also Various Nissan boots on ebay that look similar, could be cheap to try and order one off measurements...

The small banjo bolt is the oil restrictor, it can go either end if the threads are the same, but it looks like the restricted one has a finer thread. Why don't you try and spin them in?

But of course mate, it's her car. I will try and make this one again guys, hopefully not busy on the 2nd. See you there... Where?

Wat? Nope... S14 stocky, GT28R.

I'm going into Costco tomorrow most probably...

S2 33, so the speedo is digital not cable right? Sounds like a bad solder joint in the dash but I would check all the wires and plugs underneath the car first.

The adapter was around 1k US. No, our CAN system is different. It isn't OBD2 compliant.

Lucky you never wound the boosts up eh Aaron.

Except the M35 CAN system in an orphan too. RWD, go the z33 box, but for awd, the r33 gtr box is now the go. A company in the US has made a gearbox adapter for VQ to RB box. A Link G4 will run the show with either the auto or manual, just that no-one has done it yet.

Just solder it, dry solder joints on the pins is usually the cause. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/297345-m35-factory-boost-gauge-repair/page__p__6208183__hl__m35%20boost%20gauge%20repair__fromsearch__1#entry6208183