scotty nm35

Lol, I was talking about Craigs mess but as you saw Leon, it doesn't take much. Considering it's an engine transplant if you don't have fuelling spot on, and aftermarket engine rebuild parts are non existent, it could get expensive.

Agreed, manual controls are much more reliable, and no seat airbags to blow my balls off. The stock seats are rather shiteful imo, you sit on top of them and need to brace with your knees around corners. The Bride Euro2's are unbelievable.

Not much point trying to adjust fuel trims unless you ditch the stock narrowband, which would probably be detrimental to fuel economy. Plus, leaning the fuel on cruise would make exhaust temps skyrocket. The stock computer does a pretty good job actually, the Emanage comes into play when the AFM voltage is maxed, and you get shot through the windscreen on fuel cut.

Agreed, it could be $150 an hour to diagnose an issue on the dyno, sort it out first if possible.

Perhaps you could try a good auto trans joint like MV Automatics? I can't help with dealerships in SA sorry.

What do you need? Don't you have a tuna? Not something I would like to attempt on my own... We don't need more melted VQ25det's.

Nice, should crank out some good torque. Who's tuning it and with what ecu?

Did they try and clear the code? It's very hard to diagnose faults like this, I am guessing you will have to find an import friendly Nissan dealership that is willing to contact Japan for fault diagnosis.

No, sorry. What is the code?

Try re-soldering the AFM, there is a 'how to' on here somewhere. Or get another known good unit to try. Most times an intermittent fault like this one is due to dry solder joints inside the AFM.

I have had 2 Costco jacks fail, if you leave them in the rain (even once) the seals will crap out on the pistons. Costco refunded them no problem. The issue is Costco never have them in stock, as those ebay ^^ dropkicks keep buying them by the pallet load. Damn good jack though.

Personally I don't care if you help or not... There are many faults that can develop in the airbag circuits on these cars and not every fault can be attributed to the B1161 codes (or anti submarine rams.) Funny that Nissan have no idea what those codes mean, let alone knowing how to repair them. I have been trying to fix my particular airbag codes for 4 years so far, as have many others, and buying new seats from Nissan obviously isn't an option for most of us. If there was a simple fix to drop a resistor or diode over the faulty unit, at least the other airbags would deploy in an accident... Alas, still no information.

Nissan? They are around $50 I think

The stock FPR should be fine, it will be something else you have recently modified. Did you hardwire the fuel pump to battery voltage? Which type did you install?

PM'd.

You love telling people about those anti submarine rams Chris, but I still can't find them, in any of the V35, 350z or NM35 manuals...

Price wise, not very well.

VQ it Moh...

I have a few here. PM'd.

I have had the trans in limp mode many times, it is definitely doing that due to overheating fluid. Taking the key out and re-starting the car should clear it, but if it's still too hot it will fault again obviously. Get a trans cooler on it Murray, they aren't expensive.

Two fuel regs? lol. I think you will find the other one is a pulse dampener.

Lol. IBTL...

Is this in a Stagea? I was hoping someone would do an engine conversion into something with a decent amount of room, without the cramped stock manifolds... Should be interesting to compare to my results. Staying auto?

No worries, let me know when you get back Josh.

Are you sure you didn't hook it up to the indicators? Run a power feed directly from the battery through a relay, with the original pump wire powering the coil of the relay. Make sure it's fused at the battery too. If that doesn't work you may have a problem with the ecu or pump controller.