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scotty nm35

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Everything posted by scotty nm35

  1. Back of the engine, so likely you damaged it. Why did you do the engine swap?
  2. Or you can replace the nutserts in the calliper too. Spacers are probably easier.
  3. Totally agree, these aren't too bad as far as direct injection engines go, there isn't much valve overlap on the VQ25dd so the carbon doesn't cake the lower runners as quickly as other engines I have had to scrape clean. It should be regular maintenance to give it a good scrub internally. As for the swirl valves, you saw the size of the runners when you cleaned them right? I would imagine it restricts the top end badly even with the swirl valve open. The idea is to promote swirl in the chamber by blocking one of the two intake valves to help eliminate knock, it would only work at idle and cruise I imagine.
  4. You could always get the new Bosch 1650's. They should be good for over 600kw on ethanol at a guess.
  5. It's likely a coil pack fault, but try clearing the code first, it might just dissapear.
  6. Did you twist all the resistor wires together and solder them?
  7. No problems with the M35 ceramic turbine, I bumped mine up to 19-20psi on ethanol, for 5 months in between Garrett GTX's. Perhaps the ceramic is glued better on the Stagea? They run 14psi stock. It was a low K turbo so I suspect it's old age or heat cycles that kills ceramic turbos more than boost or shaft speed. Anyway it's not hard to shove a small highflow core inside it.
  8. The part is $90 delivered from Amayama, and 30 minutes to change, it's only one bolt, but can be difficult to get to in some VQ's.
  9. The pressure washer sprayed the oil onto it, or it was the water and degreaser causing the slip. All you likely had to do was wait for the belts to dry. That tacky belt grip won't be helping, that stuff is crap and will take a lifetime to get off. It will contaminate every new belt you put on until the residue is completely gone. I hate belt grip with a passion as you will understand if you try and clean the pulleys. The bearings are rubber sealed, nothing will have got into the bearing. Its almost impossible to wash the grease from a sealed bearing unless you pop the covers off it.
  10. So you sprayed all this oily crap on the belt and wonder why it's slipping? The belt needs to be dry or it won't grip the pulleys, there is no such thing as belt grip imo, or any other product that will clean contamination off the belt or pulleys. Cleaning it off now will take forever. Should have just slapped a new set of belts on.
  11. I have had no issue with DBA 4000's, but most other rotors, one or two piece have warped on me or my customers, track or road. Once I changed the evo to the floating design, same as the R35 runs, all the brake vibration went away as it allows the rotor to heat and expand evenly on the hat using T slots. Motorbikes have been using floating disks for years, but the noise was off putting having a rotor banging around on the buttons. These new designs use springs to centralise the disk on the hat and stop any noise from an unsupported disk. I agree with GTSBoy, there would be less heat transferred to the hub and rim.
  12. Nice looking kit, were the bolts 12mm or 14 though? Shame you didn't get the oem disks, the floating design of the evo10 disk is the reason I would upgrade, more so than the calliper.
  13. Dale can only be stuffed replacing the lower part on his intakes.
  14. I just disconnect the hose on the Stagea's I tune, but you are correct, once tuned it would make no difference as the fuel map is modified. On a stock car it may well be used for minor corrections, either way you need it there and plugged in on the Stagea to stop the code. All this because the OP is too tight to buy a new sensor... Just get one from a wrecked M35 if you want one that's not brittle.
  15. No, needs to be the same resistance or it will throw a code. There are plenty of these sensors at the wreckers, many Nissan's use the same sensor including the early C34 and later M35 Stagea. Worst case buy a new one, it's still available from Nissan.
  16. Not unplugging the electrical connector, but unplugging the hose and blocking it. Pretty sure they are only used as overboost protection.
  17. I have seen rubbery crap blocking the injector baskets a few times, I can only guess it's the inside of the rubber hose breaking down. It's different to the molasses sticky mess that sometimes builds on the injector tip, after cleaning a few Audi RS4 plenums it looks like the same gunk they build up in the runners and around the valves, just a symptom of long valve overlap or high exhaust manifold pressure I suspect. Interestingly it's only one injector that gunks up in some cases, so I can't see the fuel being the direct cause.
  18. I think you're on the money with that design, not even sure the ethanol foams up like 98, but anything you can do to make sure no air bubbles find their way to the pump... Logging fuel pressure is the key like Burn is doing. It's the only way to see whats happening at the track. Let us know how the Hydramat goes, I will likely be giving it a go very soon.
  19. Should be fine if you keep the 255, the 460 is known to have issues on some cars as the return flow is insufficient. Just make sure you check the base fuel pressure is similar, and that it drops 10psi or so from there at idle.
  20. What pump are you fitting?
  21. I would say the AFM is stuffed (dry joints) or you mucked the wiring up when you moved it. That's where I would start. Can you log the AFM voltage somehow?
  22. That is well worth taking 3 minutes to watch, thanks Peter. Interesting seeing the foaming that happens, mainly at low tank levels. It's part of the reason I was looking at the Holley Hydramat intank, rather than a surge setup. Not sure I can get it to work with the twin Walbros of course, they seem to only use AN fittings.
  23. Yep, sounds fine. No issues with my 6an return running twin 255's, I can drop the pressure well below 30psi base so it's not even close to maxing the return flow. 8an is overkill. The only issue will be if one pump fails, in your case the one that gets switched in.
  24. You running rubber lines Paul? That looks pretty bad...
  25. Black goo comes from the combustion chamber, not the ethanol. Direct injection petrol motors have the same issue, only 10 times worse, as there is nothing cleaning the crap off. I have seen alloy rails corrode in a similar way, but my raw alloy tank lid hasn't caused any issues yet, 6 years on. Perhaps it's the grade of alloy? Either way I would be anodising every fuel component you can.
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