scotty nm35

I have a couple made up if you want one Josh or Dale.

Sounds like good advice there James. Opinions are like arseholes, everyone has one. Try a few different grades and see/feel how your engine responds Flavzz. Thicker oils will feel more lethargic until the temps get high but will offer more protection for the track. They will also take longer to drain back to the sump which is a common RB issue.

Rear of drivers side head usually, although the high pressure fuel pump is there on the DD's.

If it's just the motor, are any of the other ones in the car able to fit in it's place? I have all units bar the drivers one.

Also check the relay box isn't wet, it's behind the battery. If the battery compartment drain is blocked it can cause issues similar to this, but it does sound like the BCM in the drivers foot well.

I think you would be surprised, the stock pump will flow very well at no pressure. As long as the return line goes back to the surge tank also you should be fine, worst case you would empty the surge after a few minutes of WOT, which never happens.

Yep, it's a two minute job to get the pedal unit out. Pull the plug and remove the two nuts.

Give me a yell if you have issues, I may be able to make something up for you if you draw up the dimensions. What is the pipe size?

Get some rainex.

Random stalling sounds like the cam sensor as above, did the engine light come on?

It's only an hour job to fit Deep dish. The air bubbles make their way up to the bleed point quite well if the heater is off, but there is no way to get the air from the block cavity. You would need to tip the car on it's side for that. Must have been designed on a Friday arvo. The Pathfinder had a similar design to mine, obviously Nissan had issues due to high load towing at the testing grounds, and had to re-design the cooling system to promote cooler running and stop flash boiling off the block liners.

The only option would be to purge the air from the block, using something similar to my coolant mod. Otherwise it's impossible to get all the air out. I have a Lisle funnel that clips onto the radiator, allowing the bubbles to release. It doesn't work too well on VQ's but it may help get it close to full. Perhaps making up something similar for the rear bleeder may work, I had planned to make a funnel like this to sell with the coolant mod but the cost was already blowing out. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lisle-Radiator-Cooling-System-Spill-Free-Funnel-24610-/400080285135?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5d26a4adcf&_uhb=1#ht_2372wt_1393

Pilot sports have always been a great tyre, just damn expensive.

Dude, until they have proven that it will work all they have is a hacked up engine harness. Can they source the ecu pins? A couple of plastic connectors can't be too hard to source. The VQ25dd uses the same plug, perhaps they are easier to get a hold of if you have access to the pins?

Great option Leks, do you have a good HKS tuner nearby?

There is a drain bung up beside the thermostat that you would need to remove to get all the coolant out of the block. Then flush with the hose and repeat.

Poor servicing, long oil changes or low quality oil.

Seems a shame to me to hack up a perfectly good engine loom just to make a field harness, especially as it still won't work. There are more pins required than our plugs have so unless you can find spares you're buggered. It's hard enough to get the fcon running without trying to get an untested harness to work... I assume Ryan you were talking about the same place making them up?

The Tomei should be good for 400 odd KW on e85. The buzzing is normal when the fuel gets hot, put a fuel cooler in if you are worried.

I'm saying go to nissan for the parts required. I heard the syncro's are around $100 each.

Weak actuator?

Nissan?

True, that's why I have a 2.4 stroker kit coming from the US for the emo.

I have no idea what speed I am doing though any corners, too scared to look at the speedo. lol.

It's more likely to be the throttle body but the pedal could be the issue. As it's just a glitch that causes the limp mode it is very hard to measure voltage or resistance issues, easier to swap the parts out.