scotty nm35

Good jacks, just don't leave them outside as the seals seize up. Good warranty too.

You fags living together now?

Except the noise is coming from the pump, which points to the check valve bleeding off (leaking) more so than the reg in the engine bay. I didn't hear any strange noises with my old Tomei pump, which Artz is using now without issue...

Small runners, sweeping radius and internally smooth pipe joins/merge collector will make a sweet manifold. Anything with large pipe or tight bends wouldn't be suited (at this power level anyway.) It's interesting Kyle (6boob) won't change his piping sizes, even if the customer requires it for a particular power output.

Once you go e85 you won't go back. I have been using it for 4 years now, and I just take jerries on long drives. There are plenty of e85 threads on here if you want some more info. Best mod you can do, by just changing servos... You will need a decent ecu to run flex fuel (any percentage of ethanol) otherwise you will have to drain your tank to swap. Do some research as you are stuck with it once you decide on an ecu, make sure it will do what you need it to.

Considering both ethanol production plants are in Queensland you should be able to source some e100. Otherwise, look up Caltex or United's websites and see what pumps are close by. I would have done it for you if you had your location. United are selling e85 for 25cL less than unleaded. It works out about the same cost per Km as 98 from my experience.

The rear bleed point is where you want to fill from, once the radiator is full. Just leave the radiator cap on and crack the bleeder, I use a large syringe to fill it. As I said, make sure the car is cold (overnight) before checking and filling. You will have to do it a few times as the bubbles get trapped in the block, and are only released from driving around. It's a pita, but once bled you should be fine if the system is still sealed.

And be $800 lighter. lol.

That pressure seems about right, and the 80c temps are pretty good too. What is the issue? It's a good idea to test thermostats before you use them, dunk it in hot water and see what temp it opens...

But did you fill it completely from the bleed point? It needs to be done cold, then drive around to release the bubbles from the block. Once it's cooled again you need to re-check the rear bleed point. Same issue at the moment in the Stagea forum...http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/418050-overheating-gearbox-something-else/ If it's in need of bleeding you can hear a waterfall sound behind the dash, and the heater won't work properly. (not that you would know at this time of the year) One cupful of coolant missing is enough to airlock the system. I have designed a VQ coolant mod to get around this issue if anyone wants to stop this happening, and make it easier to bleed... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/413471-m35-coolant-bypass-mod-install/page__st__20__p__6651111__hl__coolant%20mod__fromsearch__1#entry6651111 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/410876-m35-coolant-bypass-kit/page__st__20__p__6572366__hl__coolant%20mod__fromsearch__1#entry6572366

What a rip. At least you can go halves...

Let us know how you go, hardwiring has fixed the issue too many times to remember.

An R53 AFM will still be metering air that has been ingested by the engine and then dumped without it's knowledge. Unless you can run an afm on the BOV to subtract fuel, or go map like anyone with a brain does, you will have issues.

I have a full screen/dvd setup here...

Do a search, there are a few how to's on the subject. Just run the old pump wire into the relay coil to energise it. Make sure you have a fuse on the battery feed and use a good size wire.

1 inch runners will keep the gas speed high too. Unless they are a restriction why go bigger?

Mmm, not sure. I will have a look. Are you planning to run the rear heater vents on a car without it? Interesting...

I will see if I can stuff a GT35 into it for you Chris.

I see a little of my work in that bay. Sad to see you selling it mate, not many out there with such attention to detail...

I will make a few up soon mate, let you know when they are done. I think hot on the gauge is over 120 degrees and definitely getting into blown head gasket territory. I find you can never get the air bubbles from the block unless you go for a drive, then let it cool completely before topping the rear bleeder. As Alex mentioned, it should be easier with the front lower, that way the air is more likely to make it's way up to the bleeder.

Craig had nothing but problems with his HDI and I am now of the opinion a good mechanical option is best. He already has my HD actuator fitted, and the manual bleeder is a solid performer. No need for the defectable electronic options imo, even though they allow slightly better response. (due to the little spike they give.) Although, some EBC's have an overboost warning, this is more important than a boost gauge I feel.

Definitely just short on fluid, one cup full missing is enough to airlock the system. Let it cool overnight and top up the rear bleed point. You may need to do it a few times but let it cool completely before you try again. The best part of having the coolant mod installed is the system won't airlock, even with a litre missing from my experience.

Was overfilled apparently, first hot lap it foamed up and overflowed a little out the top breather. Not something I was proud of but at least it made it through the day for once. Good feeling overtaking GTR's.

Still won't help Aaron find his way around turn 2.

Meh, dinosaur V8 tech.