scotty nm35

If they sent you V35 springs by mistake they will be too low. Mine were perhaps the first ones to be fitted and they didn't yet have the correct springs made.

I have a couple of amps here Aaron, and a nice head unit with minidisk stacker... Just hide it in the glovebox. Roid rage.

Get it on the dyno and get a printout of the boost ramp, it will show you where it's spiking and also what the wastegate is holding. It should be around 15-16psi if you run the actuator directly off the boost source.

With more power comes more exhaust flow, and more wastegate flow. If some part of the wastegate system can't bypass enough the gasses will flow through the turbo instead, causing spiking. How you can rule out the dump even though it's untested is a little concerning. Changing to a bellmouth design is the usual fix for poor wastegate flow, do some searches in the forced induction section if you don't want to believe me. If you can fix the spiking issue you will unlock more power as you will have gained exhaust flow.

Dependant on water content i'm sure. I would be interested to know the resistance if you can find out, I just assumed I lose a little voltage over the exposed terminals...

The E85 specific Walbro 400L has sealed pump contacts and plugs as ethanol can conduct electricity.

If you are still having issues you may have to look at the split dump unfortunately. Quite often the wastegate pipe flows poorly causing boost to skyrocket once power goes up.

I'm guessing your temp sensor is in the return flow back to the engine, after the radiator? Otherwise the minimum temps would be greater than the thermostat opening temp. (unless it is drilled or faulty) My car saw 122 degrees water temp at Sandown on a 30 degree day, after only 3 laps. This is taken at the outlet of the head at the back of my VQ. If I measured the temperature at the radiator outlet it would be much lower obviously, and I wouldn't be so worried. I still have to try blocking the sides to force air through the coolers, that should help me. Otherwise I may have to resort to a water spray kit I guess. Running 500hp on a 2.5L is going to generate much more heat than a 500hp NA 5L imo.

Cable ties on all my vac hoses, otherwise they blow off. Welcome to your first issue with bumping up the boost.

I have 2 sets here I probably won't use. Make me an offer.

Ouch.

Good chance you pulled the plug partially out then. Pull it out and check it and the voltage first, before assuming the bulbs are blown.

An 80% day with no timing? I know I wasn't pushing it... That race r32 shouldn't have been on the track imo, especially in a group with road cars running passenger laps...

The two actuators I recently sent up to Craig have been holding around 16psi nicely so it must be something in the setup. I would suggest getting a temporary boost gauge on it, or run it up on the dyno with their map sensor running and see what the actuator runs with a new hose directly operating it. Perhaps the stock turbo wheel being so small means the wastegate is too small also? I didn't have any issues with my stocker though...

Seriously, ring Hypergear and have a chat, going down this route will end in tears...

There could be an issue with the actuator spring, I had to change manufacturer so it may actually be a 19psi one now. Thats why I asked you to disconnect all bleeding sources and the controller solenoid to test the actuator on it's own. Mucking around with the boost like this isn't good without an accurate gauge and wideband.

I have Euro 2 Bride seats with V35 rails in mine. I sit about 2-3 inches lower now than the original seats and they are much more comfortable for every day driving. I sit in the seats, not on top of them.

I would suggest bleeding the coolant system first, they can be quite hard to bleed and only a cup full missing can cause an airlock and overheating, similar to what is occurring to your car.

Here is the back, not hard to change if you can find the bulb.

If you look at the graph above you will see it isn't 10% across the board.

Just bypass the boost controller solenoid for now, and let me know what boost it's running without bleeding air off. Plumb it back in before the dyno, but don't drive it hard before tuning it mate, it will run much more boost up high in the revs...

It just can't handle the heat. I have replaced all my stock hoses due to leaks as they had all gone hard. After a few years, the replacement hoses have all gone hard and are leaking again. Silicone doesn't have that problem. Why don't we use rubber on our aftermarket intercooler piping joins? Because we have all seen the factory rubber go hard causing leaks. Reinforced Silicone ftw.

Have you checked the TPS yet mate? Stick a meter on the wires and make sure it drops to .45v or whatever is recommended.

They are auto trans specific, I got a transmission cooler kit recently that had the correct flare fitting included in the packet. If they are a standard BSP thread a liquid teflon sealant should work. http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/category/cooler-fittings.html

I had to disconnect a cruise the other day for the same fault, I have also seen the throttle assembly being the issue. (tps) Mine did the same thing with the pivot throttle controller plugged in, any resistance difference between the two throttle signals will trigger limp mode. Try disconnecting the cruise for a while, it may well be the answer.