scotty nm35

A manual series two C34 is the better base for mods imo. Neo engine with VCT will see you far surpass the performance of the RB26, for less coin than the 260 purchace price. Km's will almost definitely be wound back at some point, and make sure you check for underbody rust before buying. Half the imported cars I see have an unusually large amount of rust underneath.

This ^^ means no answers...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/exhaust-turbine-GT35-GT30-rear-82-a-r-Turbo-Turbocharger-housing-brand-new-/150944625345?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23250032c1&_uhb=1#ht_2197wt_1159 Not sure on the quality of these but they look good for the price. You would have to ditch the GCG hack housing and go external gate though. The stainless housings like mine also came in T3 flange but they don't seem to be selling them anymore. The other option is the Kinugawa 10cm... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-Turbine-Housing-Garrett-GT30R-GT3076R-GT3037-AR73-10cm-T3-V-Band-/120916434694?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c272e5f06&_uhb=1#ht_1166wt_1159

Each to their own Anthony, no-one bagged you out for buying an overpriced Stagea... Did they... Turbosmart makes some of the best silicone Vacuum hose I have found, the Autobarn stuff kept splitting on me. Definitely cable tie the ends, should be good for over 50psi as tested by myself.

The 0.82 rear should be about perfect for your engine, I ran the 1.06 without too much lag in my daily 2.5L for a year. If you are worried about price you could look at the aftermarket stainless housings on ebay, I have one of the Tial copy vband .82's, running 350wkw on a GTX3076.

You will find all the V35's and M35 Stageas have this discrepancy, but the ecu gets a good speed signal and you can display this actual speed via the obd2 port. (it is much more accurate.) I agree, it is very annoying and can cause frustration, 10k's out at 100 is a joke.

It was an un-timed 80% day, with passengers. Plenty of care was taken, as we were getting booted if the wheels hit the dirt. That said, I was scooting around there in about 1:30 on a good lap which is fairly quick, especially for the weight of the car. The brakes held up fine, I never push them too hard as I like leaving some stopping in reserve. Sandown is an older style track, to run there fast you need to cut the corners, meaning hitting the high ripple strips hard. I don't think the Stagea will ever be fast there as I care about the chassis too much.

Merry Christmas to all.

I'm still keen, I wanted to see how the Stagea handled Sandown before committing as I doubt the evo will be ready by then. Perhaps with some water spraying on the coolers I will get some more laps out of the old girl...

The wheel bearings have two bearing races inside them, probably only one of them is noisy, and this side is under more load on right handers.

The informeter is accurate, but only displays up to 179kph due to the speed cut arrangement. The Nismo dash showed over 240, but it was probably 20ks or more out.

A few pics of the whale at Sandown. Shame Youtube compress the 1080 video so much. And it doesn't sound like the little VQ is hitting nearly 8000 revs either...

I use alloy angle, it won't mark/damage the steel like the teeth found on most vices.

Is it a turbo model Nuwan?

The pad was dragging due to the bent pin, mine was the same when I bought it. I have no idea how one pin can bend but it seems to be common. You could simply straighten the in a vice using something soft so you don't mark it, then grease it up and re-fit them.

Twin thermo's and the engine fan, all running constant. Those Mishimoto radiators are a little difficult to fit, the top right mounting pin is slightly out, meaning you need to ditch the rubber part, and the condenser is hard up against it.

Good news?

I had a thrash around Sandown today, happy to say the car ran very well. Still have to work on the cooling setup, even those massive 30 row coolers aren't up to the task. I may have to invest in some kind of water spaying setup for the front. 30 degree day at full noise saw everything shoot up. Oil hit 127 degrees, water 122 and the trans got to 105, all within 3 laps. At least the gearbox was ok. No limp mode, no slipping clutches.

Spotted twice now, a black m35 with Muscle sticker down the side, last spotted on the Dandenong bypass.

I will upload video of Sandown tomorrow.

It's a good idea to change the dump at least, while you are there. As long as you keep the turbo wheels almost stock sized, it should all work fairly well on the factory mapping.

10mm rachet spanner, the long one I have makes the job easy. Shove something between the pulley and belt to stop it spinning, it may help.

No bolts, just some small slots in the bottom. I just helped Dave M35 with some info on fitting, I will just cut and paste my response. Quote: Yeh, I had a few issues too. The right hand twist fitting for the top I had to ditch the rubber, the pin was out a little too much. Looks like a manufacturing fault but it works ok. The fiberglass had to be cut out around the radiator cap, not too much, just use a nice sharp blade so you can remove the cap easily. the fiberglass section must be further away on the G35. The lower condenser slots are too wide like you said, but it doesn't seem to matter once the top bolts are done up. Just make sure the flat part sticking out stays above the slot then do the top bolts up. The fan shroud is too short, I had to cut the edge off on the airbox side. Trial fit it before you put the rad in the car, you will see the section you need to remove.

If the gasket is gone you will see it when the turbo is removed, but considering the amount of labour involved in removing the turbo, I would be getting it highflowed anyway.

No PM yet... I just got back a spare actuator so I can send one over to Perth, that way you don't have the car off the road too long. I will need your original one back though, for the next person.