scotty nm35

The coolant thermostat? It's just three bolts, no need to remove the radiator or fan. With the o2 issue, I seem to remember Jaycar having a kit to combat this very problem. Perhaps you could look into it?

I think they melted down old drink cans, which were rusty steel at the time... Looks like this thread is headed for wasteland.

lol. Would prefer the Neo 2.5 if I HAD to drive a c34.

Meh. Old car is old. What's so special about a non vct 2.6 straight 6 anyway?

I still hit the limiter thanks to the auto not shifting at wot, soft limit is set at 7k, hard limit is 7,600. I don't know what Cam is on about... possibly a hard cut backup?

Back to Skodaville Iain, our stock turbo's are BB cores. lol.

I think you need to research more about o2 feedback. The widebands play up constantly and require resetting, recal and the sensors require regular replacement. They are in no way reliable enough to use for auto afr targeting, unless you have some way of proving the sensor is accurate, like running twin sensors through some comparison circuit. It's not something a tuner would like to setup either. (hopefully you already know that from speaking to your tuner.) The Fcon would try and hold a set AFR, as in 14.7 or whatever you target it to hold. The factory ecu wants to see 14 then 15.5, cycling every few seconds. They are in no way similar. Geddit?

I'm rebuilding a set of fronts at the moment, it's only an hours work tops, getting them out shouldn't take long either with the right tools. Grubby job though...

Meh, some scattered self tuning functions from what I have seen, not worth going down that route imo, it's mainly for dumb arse tuners to hack a tune out with before fine tuning from there. Mine has bugger all dramas with different temps, as the tuner has set up the coolant temp and intake temp corrections fairly well. It is running a bit rich atm but that's due to me being a compulsive modifier, not the tune. Once set it shouldn't need o2 correction. I haven't run it for years.

You want to see 'crack the shits' when he cuts the CEL signal wire. lol. Take the bulb out and bypass it with a resistor.

Why would you want factory style correction anyway? Target AFR's perhaps, but you would have to rely on the wideband a little too much for my liking. Without a full standalone we are frigging around in the dark.

Soooo... BW are copying a Tial?

Oh boy, where to start. The stock ecu is trying to adjust the fuel rich and lean many times a minute. If it doesn't see a corresponding change on the narrowband it will throw a fault. How can it do this with no control over the fuel anymore? There is no way to send a matched but delayed signal back to the ecu, you could throw it some random sine wave but our ecu is way to smart for that. The wideband will show a set AFR at idle with the HKS, the stock ecu would normally be cycling a rich/lean pulse not holding a stable afr. Using the narrow band output from the wideband controller won't change anything.

My cooler setup, two 30 row coolers, one 12an for oil and one with 8an for the trans. (plus the PS cooler.) Not much room left. lol. The engine oil cooler has a 14 inch fan on it, and the transmission one has a 9 inch spal. Both fans electronically controlled off temp sensors in the cooler return lines.

I think you will find the hub can fall out without the axle and nut poking through it. Definitely that way on the M35, the hub bearing is only pressed on...

With the offset bushes, as with the swaybars, BC's and underbody bracing, the car keeps getting noticeably better turn in. I can't believe how much better the handling has become from the saggy whale like feel it had when I bought it. Highly recommended.

I have a spare one here, or I can fabricate a shiny new stainless 3 inch one, what are you after?

Mine has hose barbs welded directly, perhaps they have changed recently? The radiator is completely different to my original one, and much easier to fit.

When you can, the next person in line will be hassling you, not me. lol.

No worries. Glad to help.

The mishimoto has trans cooler fittings built in, at least the last two I bought did. Would you like me to check? That said, a secondary trans cooler is suggested when you start modding...

Same one I bought.

Where's your sensor mounted Rob? I have a 30 row on my trans also, I still see 80+ coming out of the converter, before the cooler. Obviously after the cooler is much lower. I wonder how much difference there is compared to at the the sump?

I sent it today Ryan, you should see it before the end of the week. Your controller won't be having an easy time trying to control boost, the actuator will definitely help it.

The stock computer thinks it still has control, and expects to see a result from its o2 cycling. When this doesn't come it throws a fault. The Fcon is trying to trick it but it isn't smart enough obviously. (or not set up correctly) Either way, it makes no difference as the stock computer is doing nothing with regards to tuning anyway. As long as it stays happy enough to run the throttle and cams you are fine.