scotty nm35

Just don't boot it Yang, they seem to let go at full throttle. I lost my supplier unfortunately, and it took me a long time to find a decent one initially. I tested many AFM's before finding a decent supplier.

Be careful, these fujitsumo exhausts get toasty...

Not really, the new Nissan PN just fails constantly, some of my customers went through 7 or more before fitting my aftermarket ones. Mine were lasting fine. The original PN works very well, 15 years nearly in my case.

Sounds like you need a custom tank lid with bulkhead fittings. Surge setups can be hard to get right, do you have some pics of yours? The 8an return from the rail normally goes back to the surge tank, if you have a smaller pump intank you usually only need a small return to the main tank.

6AN should be fine, the stock GTR fuel lines are good for 5-600kw. The 040 mesh is very fine, and can't be cleaned or replaced. Don't be surprised if it gets clogged quickly.

Not true, my uncle hit 7 before going out on stress leave. Perhaps the long haul freight train drivers are a harder breed? Either way, not something I would like to deal with.

You have spent more than most with the auto controller etc, but by far the best drivability from any built auto I have driven. When comparing to the manual box, remember a decent clutch to hold 4-450kw is over 2 grand. And it wouldn't last long at that power without a gearset. You could potentially spend similar coin on the manual setup.

There may be a delay if the vac line is too long, not sure how it would go. You could run that hard plastic push fitting airline hose under the car, it wouldn't crimp. It's used for airbag setups.

Greg managed 400kw from his 34, but it is a built 2.8 with a built auto. I would be looking to keep it around 300kw, for auto longevity, but it will need a valve body upgrade and large trans cooler at a minimum.

Rules that out then. If the pump is indeed dropping pressure you need to get a gauge on it somehow. Are you running a surge tank?

I would say ignitor, saw the same thing happen to the Gibson 32 at the GP a few years ago.

Are you running an oiled air filter element? The tune must have been drifting badly and you just didn't notice...

Yeh Peter, I have the 1500hp pump here I am still planning to fit to the Stagea. I saw their PWM output regs, they should work well together. Much better idea than running the PWM output from the Haltech I think. What's better to control the pump speed than the reg? They are hard to beat for the price, and for the road intank pumps are definitely the go, unless you have crazy saddle tanks and need a surge tank setup...

Never used one, sorry.

Sorry I can't help with those sizes in drop in, Bosch make some 525's and 750's though that will do the job nicely.

I have never needed to replace a trans filter, they just wash out. The gasket won't need changing either most likely.

3.5L runs a different plug, and has different CAN protocols. The 2.5dd, 3.0dd and 2.5det all run the same ecu plug with slightly different pinouts. Most 3.5L ecu's will work, without cam actuation. If you want the cams to work, you will need to reprogram the frequency/degree and self learning, which only the Haltech Elite can do afaik, and without Haltech support you are up the creek (as Mercury found out the hard way). Short story- Don't bother at this time.

I had a similar issue on a 34 the other day, turns out the Z32 afm plug on the wiring side had a wonky pin, this is why you buy new Bosch plugs not shitty old VL ones from the wreckers.

It's the same engine, why not just follow the V35 video? Oil and filter will be the same, and just take a filter to autobarn and match it? Otherwise go to Nissan for parts?

I'm sure a competent tuner can sort all that out quick smart, and I can guarantee no competent tuner will just hand out such information either, considering it will have taken years to work out.

Have you tried epcdata? What did you want to know about it? Edit. Just found this Vin breakdown list. This is the vehicle VIN code broken down JN1- Manufacturer-Nissan, Passenger vehicle A- Engine Type- VQ35DE Z- Vehicle Line- 350Z 3- Model Change- (0-9) 4- Body type- Coupe D- Restraint System- D: driver/passenger airbags A: D + SRS side airbags E: A + SRS curtain airbags * - Check Digit (0-9 or X) 3 or 4- Model Year T- Manufacturing Plant- T: Oppama XXXXXX- Vehicle Serial Number

At least they were nice enough to give you the part, even if they couldn't be bothered undoing a few bolts and fitting it.

Most units have a simulated narrowband output wire for this very reason.

There are two plugs used on the VQ35, the front one you will need. The rear o2 has a blue plug and won't fit into the green plug. The VQ25 and 30 run only the green one pictured above. For less money you could buy a wideband and run the simulated narrowband output to the ecu.

No worries Simon. I am able to change these assemblies through the front cam cover, where the blue plug is. It's not something I would suggest to someone who has never pulled a DD apart before, but I could help your mech with basic directions if he needs them. He will likely want to drop the front cover though, it would be the best way to do the job right.