scotty nm35

I only use a flush if I have cracked the engine, replacing heads or turbo's when im not sure everything is clean, or has had coolant through it. I always make sure to run a cheaper oil through afterwards and dump it within a few days. Perhaps i'm overly cautious?

I don't understand why you guys are running such thick oils, are your engines built loose like a Cranbourne slapper? A good read if you have the time... http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/90661-16-important-oil-questions-answered/ Understand an oil that thick will have issues draining back to the sump, even at track temps. No way I would be revving it high either with thick oil, probably half the reason rb oil pumps fail regularly. At 80 degrees oil temp you probably only need a 0w20 for a high rpm modern engine...

It must have had a large airlock in the system, you need to recheck the coolant when cold for the next few mornings any time you dump it and refill. I took 2 pics for you guys, the fittings on both coolers are touching the plastic undertray so run the full height of the radiator. Hopefully the Mishimoto will still do its job. This is all possible due to the intercooler being cut down and moved forward, bolted under the intrusion bar.

It will definitely rise once you double the amount of coolant in the system. What pressure cap are you running?

It was pitch black and beginning to rain, with lightning on the way. I was glad to have it finished before the storm hits. Shame there is no room for the hoist in the shed. The trans had the thermostat inline and also ran through the radiator so there was no problem getting it up to temp quickly. I had issues keeping the temps under control though. The fluid comes straight out of the torque converter into the cooler lines, mine was seeing stupid temps as around 30kw is lost as heat in the converter at full noise, quite often enough to boil the coolant in the radiator. I have removed the radiator fittings and thermostat from the lines so there will definitely be issues getting the temp up now. Hopefully it will still warm enough to drop into 5th fairly quickly, if not I will re-fit the thermostat.

I have seen 125 degrees with an airlock in the system, and 116 on the straight at PI. Hopefully no bubbles in your radiator or overflowing coolant reservoir and you should be fine. That said, I am rebuilding another VQ25det atm due to a blown headgasket from overheating... I finally got the 350 x 400 x 50mm trans cooler in tonight, that should take care of the gearbox temps. I still have to install the fan controller, there is a 9 inch Spal fan on the trans cooler and a 14 inch on the engine oil cooler. Both fans should turn on at a preset temp once I wire it up. Not much room left in front of the radiator now...

White M35 on Frankston-Dandenong road around 2pm today

Was it tuned with the venting BOV? You may need to pressure test the intake to check for leaks, and search for the 'how to' on cleaning the aac idle valve.

Good luck finding one, rare as rocking horse shit.

I have a stock turbo here if you don't want the extra lag, or as said, contact Hypergear here on SAU and go for one of his highflow options. Where are you located?

Spotted a white M35 at the shops at Point cook around 7pm and a white C34 on the Eastern freeway Sprigvale road off ramp coming home from purchacing the new Audi A4 quattro. That make 3 AWD cars in the driveway now.

Fix the problem before thinking about tuning. Check all intake/cooler pipe clamps, clean afm, change plugs, check for cracked or perished hoses etc.

Needs new head gasket and ARP bolts. Smell the bubbles in the radiator, if they smell like petrol you are ripping the head off.

Need moar pics Ryan. Thread is useless without them...

Fair enough, if you already had one. That comparo doesn't show the new Walbro 400L e85 pump, a steal at $200.

Yeh right, 19psi by 3k on a GT3076 with 0.82? Must be a 3L right? Most guys only hope to get that sort of response with a 0.63 rear, and no split dump is going to make that much difference.

044 is a dinosaur pump, there are much better flowing intanks around now, and for less coin. Ditch the stock pump, it is too old. A new (genuine) Walbro is under a hundred.

So? The BOV is almost definitely the issue, try blanking it off with a bit of coke can and see what happens. Then search for a stock gtr one...

You should take it to a mechanic and get a scanner on it. Driving it like this will only cause you more problems. Definitely sounds like the crank/cam sensors...

If the HKS bov is venting then that is your issue. Cars than are running airflow meters need to plumb back the returned air to keep it in the engine, or it will stall and run rich...

If I can find a cheap engine by then. Otherwise the Whale may go again...

Ooo, goodies. I had better concentrate on getting the engine running first...

The speed signal is taken from the abs computer from the wheel sensors in the m35, you will have to do the old magnet on the tailshaft trick and use a Jaycar speedo adjuster for the pulses or similar. I will check out the links, thanks mate.

After driving Aarons stock example today I realized the Stagea will never be as good on the track, plus this cost me less than a manual conversion. Aaron's jelly, I bought mine for $7k and he had to haggle the guy down to 18 grand. I won't be selling either car, I just found my new track hack.

The starter doesn't line up as it's about 15mm out. The crank sensor mount is correct at least, unlike the pathfinder. The VQ30det sump won't work either, you need the VQ35de sump from the 350z or V35 if using the 6 speed. Where is the link to the adapters? I wonder if that would allow bolting up the 33gtr box I have here...