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scotty nm35

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Everything posted by scotty nm35

  1. I guess if there was one in each state where the owner was willing to help other guys out for a small payment it could work well, otherwise it's a fair investment just for your own car.
  2. Nope, it has to be done in the car to get it exactly right, and I cbf taking the plenum off the wreck. If I do an instal here soon I will take note of it.
  3. Probably around $400 shipped Ryan, depending how many we get. Beware, there are a few different types out there, I have tried a few now. Some are just standard obd2 readers, some are more like a consult III clone. Anyone in Melbourne can drop down here for diagnostic repairs now.
  4. I have a consult III unit here that tells me which airbag is at fault, as well as errors from every other ecu in the car. Seems to work well from my testing and should work on any Nissan, even the older consult rectangle plugs. Anyone interested in a group buy?
  5. The coolant overflow bottle would be empty pretty quick if there was a leak and pressure wouldn't build in the hose. I would say more likely you dropped coolant onto the exhaust manifold and it's slowly burning off the heat shields. A bit of wd40 should help the hose slide on. Perhaps a cup of boiling water to soften the hose would be better than attacking it with a blowtorch? lol. If I had the correct length hose I could pre-fit the ends...
  6. The hose and push on fittings don't actually need the clamps but I put them in just incase, they will be fine as they seal tight, as you found out. The AN fittings you need to do fairly tight, perhaps with some antiseize also? The silicone on the gasket will stop any valley leaks. I am confident the setup will stand up to long term abuse without issues. If one of the other guys can take a measurement of the hose length when they instal it I would appreciate it. I actually had the valley fitting facing the bleeder so it didn't foul on the rear cooling pipe, so I can possibly save 60-70mm more hose than what I supplied you Ryan. How hard was it to do up the block AN fitting anyway? Best would be doing it up in a vice first when you know where it needs to face. Thanks again for the detailed guide.
  7. Limp... Needs more VQ25det. Someone get some spy pics. Come on Dcdc, what are you up to?
  8. So did you happen to measure the hose Ryan so I don't make the same mistake again? I cut at 380mm, I would rather not waste the hose as it's bloody expensive. (rated to 250 degrees I think, not 100 like most rubber hose.) Good job on the tutorial, I find it difficult to take photo's during installs, the missus won't let me use the camera with grubby hands. I warned you the stock plastic bleeder is crap, lol, same thing happened to me trying to remove one, like it's made of cardboard. Can't say I have had an issue with the lug snapping off, but good call on the copper lube. I use it all the time on stainless and alloy threads to stop galling. For anyone else interested, I will have a batch of laser cut 6mm alloy block plates this week hopefully. PM me if interested.
  9. It could point to odometer tampering, quite often they break things when winding them back I have heard...
  10. If the cooling system is bled properly with no airlocks and there are no leaks, it may point to lean running. I wouldn't go by the stock temp gauge though. When running lean on the freeway the pistons get very hot, oil is used to cool the underside of the piston which then runs through the oil to water cooler. This can place extra strain on the cooling system. The other issue will probably be the radiator, the tubes block up after a while and require replacement of the radiator or professional cleaning, with the tanks removed/replaced. I would be looking at this first.
  11. Lol. It's not as bad as trying to fit a GT35 into a V8 Soarer I bet. Why did I ever take that job on...
  12. If that's the case I have a kit here. PM'd.
  13. For re4? Kewish are good ($1200), or buy the kit yourself from the US and drop down here, I can fit it.
  14. Why would you do that to a bonnet? Sorry, I dungedit...
  15. You won't be able to keep that sweet aero bar...
  16. I owned a celica twin cam powered KE30 rolla with a migged diff for a few years, you get over it pretty quick, especially in winter. My favorite diff in the wet is the single spinner, no chance of stepping out with spider gears front and rear. AWD FTW.
  17. Don't worry, an oil separator will fix it. Totally agree Kiwi...
  18. There is no adjustment as far as I know, they will probably need to take the shims out from behind the line pressure spring in the valve body. Perhaps a slightly thicker transmission fluid may help slow the clutch actuation down?
  19. Want to put it up on the hoist and look for rust? Oh, too late.
  20. Doooeett.. Post graph here. ---> No, don't. Leave it stock.
  21. It's only in the return line, it won't affect the maximum flow as the injectors are before it. If you look inside your reg you will probably find a 2-3mm hole for the return bypass. It won't be an issue imo. I would still 'T' it off though just to be sure.
  22. Definitely silicone, you don't want to pull it all off again... I have the laser cutter slicing up some 6mm alloy plates at the moment. More kits on the way.
  23. You hope. I can guarantee they haven't put the same amount of R+D into their valve body upgrades that Transgo have. All I can go by is the local 'specialist' that makes his own springs, they aren't anywhere near as refined and simply bumping the line pressure gives clunky changes. If you are happy thats great but the RE5 is a completely different gearbox... And a two way doesn't? Give me a new tight oem Viscous lsd any day over a clunky mechanical. (for street)
  24. Custom made means it has some locally wound springs shoved in the place of the stock ones. This does not = shift kit. Yes it bumps up the line pressure but... Transgo have obviously spent a lot of research dollars sorting these kits out, replacing various pistons, adding valves and upgrading springs, all of which gives it the perfect crisp shift imo. I'm certainly glad my transmission specialist didn't cheap out and manufacture his own parts.
  25. With the RE5 the line pressure is variable, meaning at light throttle is shifts silky smooth but when you plant it the shifts are firm. Definitely great for daily duties but it needs to be installed as per instructions, something professional transmission repairers seem to have a problem with. The trans can be a little clunky compared to normal, not all the time just the occasional harder shift at light throttle or sometimes when dropping it back a gear. Nothing to worry about though. The clutches will last much longer without the drawn out slop into gear the factory valve body has. Which suburb are you in Norby?
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