scotty nm35

This won't end well...

KU36's are fine in the wet from my experience but I would definitely not buy them again due to the incredible road noise they started making at around half tread. Go the KU31's for the road, but even they are noisy from all accounts.

It would depend on the construction as there are many different styles and qualities of flex joins. If there are no markings it wouldn't matter which way it was installed.

Ny car was 2 inches off the ground when I bought it and still has the original boots, I would say bullshit to the too low suggestion. Perhaps try the new silicone style boots?

Ethanol completely evaporates at 70 degrees though. I can't see it would be an issue as long as you don't drain the catch can back to the sump...

Probably better than ripping it out anyway.

There is Matic J in the transfer case also, as well as the gearbox. The power steering can also cause bad shuddering if it gets air in the cylinder.

Shame you are so far away, I have about 50m of thick battery cable here...

It only takes 5 minutes to change the transfer case fluid, try that first.

No, the return needs to be at the top if possible, otherwise the turbo may fill with steam or just hold air in the pocket. I guess it depends on the setup though and how hard it's driven. Just think of what would happen at the track, the turbo is red hot and will be for a while as you pull back in. The water is barely flowing at idle and if you turn the engine off there is no flow. In this case the water will turn to steam and it needs to go somewhere. It needs to get to the radiator cap to be purged from the system. The steam and hot water can create water flow if done right using convection to cool the turbo better.

Yep, you won't have a problem. The water/ethanol evaporates fairly quickly once it's up to operating temp. Summer won't be bad but short drives in winter may cause issues with catch cans filling quickly, and oil going milky, depending on your oil temps.

Different wear. How do they look? It doesn't take much to cause issues, a couple of mm can do it. Perhaps the attessa fluid? I can't think of much else, yours isn't LSD rear is it?

Sorry to hear Micah, can you just put a stocker in there on low boost for the time being?

No idea, it's off a spare motor I have here. I have another off my engine somewhere, I know that one was working...

As long as the steam has some way of getting out without getting trapped it shouldn't matter too much. I would make sure the water return is at the top.

I have a s/h one here you can have cheap... Where are you located? I may be able to run a scan and test it's operation if you need.

Wheel size is different front to rear. Do you want to try my set and see if it helps? I have some work for you anyway buddy...

It came up better than I expected Cam, glad you are happy.

Adjustable actuator? Unless there are different springs that come with it... Don't change the threaded shaft position. It needs to have around 3mm of preload, it isn't for adjusting boost.

That's the issue with spacing the dump back an inch, it gets pushed back into that aircon drain. Try some heat shield around the rubber and wrap the dump. Might last a little while before it leaks into the car...

Specialists? lol. Tune the stock ecu? I had a car here recently that would fault only on full throttle, it turned out to be the throttle pedal resistor was faulty. Symptoms sound similar.

You should have saved the money from all those hektic parts and put it into a better ecu and injectors imo.

Does it sound like your turbo Alex?

Better? It's the sound of your chra bearings slowly disintegrating... At least you have Craig's number.

I just don't see how Stao can make that adapter cheaper than a nice stainless dump, it's quite a chunk of steel and plenty of machining work just to re-use the dump that may be fitted already. Surely a 5 bolt stainless dump to fit up to the stock three bolt flange, in 3 inch would be cheaper, lighter and flow better?