Jump to content
SAU Community

scotty nm35

Members
  • Posts

    12,347
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by scotty nm35

  1. I like the original bar you already have Leroy, needs chrome 22's tho, on a 45 degree camber.
  2. They do that if there is air in the system, is it foaming up at all? Any funny noises? Try slowly going lock to lock a few dozen times on a loose surface, or while jacked up, topping up the res if required, that's how I usually bleed the air out or the rack. If you just bought it they may have changed the rack recently? Otherwise you may need a new pump I guess, or a seal is leaking somewhere.
  3. Clash slows right down once you build up your town, becomes a little boring. I still play boom beach, also Castle Clash and now Hero sky. Never understood why people pay for gems though.
  4. That oil grade should be fine, but for the cost of an oil change without filter a thicker oil could be worth a try. I doubt his aftermarket diagnostics could reprogram the cam actuation, you need a Consult 3 unit to do a lot of these higher level diagnostics. Has it been banging long? If so the assembly could be damaged anyway. The PIT symbol is just a service reminder, it doesn't know there is something wrong afaik.
  5. Pay $1600 for oil and can't afford $150 to get a Consult 3 clone to reset it properly? Ok... My suggestion, sell the car and buy a manual V35, they are cheap these days.
  6. Auto won't simply bolt in though, not electrically. You will need the Consult 3 unit to reset the oil contaminant counter.
  7. The .82 TS is about the same as the .63 open housing imo, and too small for that compressor size (on an rb25) without running e85, which helps suppress the detonation smaller restrictive housings generate.
  8. Being Sonic you get that, MTQ aren't the cheapest. Like I said, I sell Turbosmart much cheaper. Too laggy is a matter of opinion, but if you want less lag get a smaller GTX3071, GTX28 or Hypergear SS2 and push it harder, no point getting a large turbo and strangling the exhaust side.
  9. Definitely the 1.06 TS if you are sticking to 98, on e85 you can get away with the more restrictive .82 TS. There is definitely a .82 TS graph in the RB25 results thread, but it was e85 and fitted to a 6 boost manifold. Where are you getting quotes for your gates? That's nearly twice what I sell them for, in smaller sizes.
  10. If the coils aren't getting enough voltage they will give a low output spark. Tried a temporary decent power feed? You could buy a set of coils then realize it's the PFC that needs changing, it's more likely if it's older than the coils.
  11. I suspect the BCM was damaged due to low voltage, probably from the battery compartment filling with water. Good idea to drop the rubber bung that gets blocked under the battery, it's a very common problem and will cause many other issues when it rains.
  12. It will be the cam actuator assembly hitting the end of it's travel, not necessarily the spring. Do you know what grade of oil your mechanic was using? I usually try a thicker oil before swapping parts, as the camshafts need the correct grade to work properly, they could also need a re-learn. $500 for the parts sounds cheap if they are new, the job may be quoted much higher if you include labor, it's quite a job to replace, especially if he wants to drop the engine.
  13. I get 110mbps on my phone, in my shed, with 3 bars of service. How is that cable service good?
  14. That's great advice, I have sold hundreds without issue. Best intank on the market, but most cheap out on the wiring. These need a 70amp relay and decent wiring like anything that draws 25+ amps. The chances the pump is at fault are pretty slim. Most likely your relay is flogged Tao, try a direct power feed.
  15. What's up with the Walbro mate? Should be good for 450ish. Better check the hose intank, was the relief valve between the pump and lid removed? I bet if you replace the dodgy fuel filter the 34's run you will find extra flow, did Trent try bypassing the filter on the dyno?
  16. Sorry to hear Yang, it did take me a while to find a suitable supplier for the aftermarket AFM's I used to sell. Amayama would have been a better option for genuine, but the shipping times from UAE aren't as good as the local Nissan dealership. You are looking at the output voltage, not the input which is 12v. The AFM's have a processor inside which would likely fault if the voltage dropped too much, and the water in the battery compartment would be the obvious cause. A lot of us have had AFM's fail after or during rain too. Not saying it's definitely the cause of AFM issues, but it most certainly creates many other electrical issues. Pop that bung out before it leaves you stranded, it serves no purpose other than to keep dust out of there.
  17. I have never needed to use an alignment tool, I have managed to centralize every clutch I have replaced by aligning it on the flywheel evenly. It's not hard to do.
  18. I used to sell them but ran out of stock. Try the part number in Ebay, there are heaps of aftermarket ones available that won't bugger up like the Nissan ones commonly do. I am trying to find the reason the AFM faults, it's likely caused by low voltage I suspect. Have you popped the bung out of the battery compartment by any chance? That's where I would start. The large 2 inch bung gets blocked flooding the relay box causing all sorts of issues. Not sure if the AFM is related to this as yet, but it looks like it may be, at least you will have fixed a source of many other electrically related failures.
  19. Another option is to run e85 on the turbo you have now, more power potential just by filling at a different pump, as long as you have the injector overhead. Obviously best if you have a servo nearby that sell it.
  20. Good idea, if it's no good a stock RB25det Neo would get the power you are chasing with no lag at all.
  21. Most likely the problem is simply the engine cooling system isn't bled properly. This causes an airlock which stops the coolant flow, the VQ only need to lose a cup of coolant to overheat. Have you read the other threads relating to bleeding? There are plenty in the V and M35 sections. Seeing as these have water all the way around the bore a leak into the combustion chamber can easily cause your issue without contaminating the oil, even a carbon test on the radiator can be hit and miss, as the head gasket may only leak under load.
  22. Hypergear do a wide range of turbos with varying flow, some like the SS2 are very responsive for their power capabilities, and run a more modern CNC compressor, much more efficient than an old TD cast compressor. This will add to the cost of course, but I am sure he could make a cast version for similar pricing to the Kando with the same wheels. Garrett do some nice GTX28 series turbos that would be perfect on an RB20, but you are looking at twice the cost of the kando. I would contact Tao and speak to him regarding your goals, you have nothing to lose, and it's not something you want to jump into without researching all your options.
  23. Unless they enlarged the wastegate puck and opened up the hole I would stay well away, stick to the products you know won't boost spike, such as Hypergear or Garrett, or going external gate is the best option imo if you can keep it looking stockish. There are some great gains to be had if an external setup is done right.
×
×
  • Create New...