scotty nm35

That is what the stock o2 sensor does, it cycles lean to rich quite a few times a minute. Without seeing the logs I can't comment but I think you are being led up the garden path with it. Go back to Jez and get the tune sorted, he will most probably drop some timing in that low rev high load part of the map. It wouldn't have been tuned properly due to the auto kicking down on the dyno, it is probably hard to replicate that one cell that is causing the issue. It may be a 5 minute fix.

SO turn the correction off. It should have been tuned initially with it off, then enabled anyway so I don't see how it could be that far out, unless there are leaks etc. (I assume Jez smoke tested the intake as usual though?) Was it doing this on the dyno? I still think it is heat related if it only does it under load on hills. Perhaps get on www.etuner.com.au and ask Cihan what he thinks, he can be quite helpful with simple fixes and advice.

There have been a few repaired, most just got the crack welded, no reinforcement. If you have seen the way the Hicas works you will know why they crack.

The Fcon tune doesn't change, in fuel or timing and the stock ecu has no control over either, only the cams and throttle. The Fcon will adjust your cruise/light load AFR's using the stock o2 sensor if it is enabled in the tune, but mine doesn't do that so I can't really help. Best to speak to your tuner. Mine has been in fault for years, are you really that worried the engine light is up? Remember you have essentially cut the stock ecu out of the equation, it is bound to get cranky. The pinking won't be fuel related, it will be timing. Again, speak to your tuner and tell him what it is doing and when, all it will need is a little timing backed out in those low revs.

Better hurry mate, the control relays have already gone. Which part is faulty?

With target AFR's on wot? Sounds dangerous. What happens if/when the sensor needs calibration or drifts in accuracy? That is the reason I don't use it for automated ethanol content tuning. Perhaps if you had two sensors with the signal being compared constantly? It will stoich tune the light load with the narrowband signal input, but this wouldn't help with Wagon boy's issues as it is already on boost and well into the closed loop part of map.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/410876-m35-coolant-bypass-kit/ Not something you can borrow. It is a few hours to fit.

I don't understand what you hope to do with the wideband, are you hoping it will tune itself using the self tune function? That isn't how it works. Have you spoken to the tuner yet?

No, the 34 front Brembo's have M14 mounting bolts, the 33 gtr front Brembo's have M12 like your car.

This probably isn't fuel, it is heat related. This is the heat the dyno is supposed to replicate. I would be backing two degrees of timing in that cell by taking it back on the dyno and loading it up at around the same revs. Or just drop the boost.

Love my $500 Rays.

Midas? A good exhaust costs money unfortunately. If you want cheap, go down and get a pressed bent mild steel system. Don't complain if it has rusted away in a few years though.

Yes, remove the resistor. I assume they are EV14's? There is no way I would be re-using 20 year old Orings, but it's your car...

You want a teflon thread sealant, not just any Loctite, a hydraulic thread liquid sealant like this one.

That is the sensor plug, you would need to turn off o2 feedback in the fcon though or the code will show. If it is pinking you will need to get timing backed out in that cell. Doesn't sound like a safe tune unfortunately. Take it back and get it sorted asap. Bad pinking is similar to hitting the edge of the piston with a mallot, the engine won't take it for long at that power level.

It is the same principle off the housing though. You want the gate to flow as well as possible, even better than the flow into the turbo if possible.

C'mon Ryan, the parts are no good sitting on the shelf. lol.

The first time? It will take a few hours I think. It is made difficult as the aircon condenser is hooked into the bottom of the radiator.

BC's = good /Thread. J_Del, that pillow ball camber plate won't do jack for these cars, make sure they don't come with them.

Try Nuwan in Bayswater, he has a few V35's for wrecking. 0422 807 393

You need a 2nd person to take the pics, otherwise the camera gets covered in oily fingerprints. I have ordered the fittings, they should be around a week away. When they arrive I will have 3 kits ready to send out straight away. For anyone else interested I can make them up as I go.

A new replacement one isn't cheap, around $350 - $400. I have a second hand one in the wreck for sale, and I may also get rid of my new stock one as it is too thin for the track. It's only a few months old... Let me know.

It's half the reason I ran it through the bandsaw...

Here, I have another 30row to replace the transmission cooler, it has a Spal 9 inch fan.

I like how their kit "lowers temps by 20 degrees", when I read that... The temps are still controlled by the stock thermostat ffs. Ours is the same female fitting Alex, but the cast alloy pipe is a different shape for that reason, it would hit the crossover I think. ^^