scotty nm35

My oil sits around 87-90 degrees, and the water 76-80 on the freeway with the Nismo thermostat. That is with a 30 row 12an oil cooler. I guess the Greddy oil thermostat is set a little high. I wonder if the water-oil cooler is affecting it's operation... I have still seen 118 degree oil temps at PI, even though the oil cooler has a 14 inch thermo running flat out. You can never have enough cooling at the track as I found out.

Of course you get the same figures, it is the reg that controls the pressure, not the pump. You must have a very high idle, with a low idle there is much more vacuum which will drop the pressure even more. If you are still worried, swap the reg. More than likely the gauge is out by a bit though.

How many of those Nitro bikes have high static compression though? I have still yet to see a high comp (11-12:1+) engine putting out big numbers on e85. Does anyone have some results to share? I can only go by what my tuner believes, which is I will hit issues over 600hp with excessively high cylinder pressures. I need an engine that will remain reliable with continuous track use, not a one run wonder then pull it down to replace the rods, bolts and inspect pistons (like a nitro drag bike.)

It depends how big you go I guess, Craig's turbo compressor is much larger than that chamfer...

So what sized hole is he putting in the intake at the turbo end? It's not something you want to do later once the intake is made.

HP?

Edit: Took too long to type. lol. You guys beat me to it. You need to find the in cabin temp sensor, I think it might be under the steering wheel where you can see a little vent in the lower cover. It has a rubber tube attached to it. If this is the sensor, perhaps it is dirty or the hose has come off? It will blow hot air until the temp has been reached under the dash, this may take a while with the vents blowing air on your face. Or the sensor is shagged?

I have a jig, it is a spare engine and turbo. I have made a few and sent them interstate now. Way too hard to guarantee fitting accuracy with only a few mm of clearance though, and most turbo's being highflows they are all clocked slightly different. Can't be done very easily. I can definitely make the lower and middle sections, then you need to cut your AFM to fit the top section to the airbox, something most people would be reluctant to do. Then, I can't supply the top part as it is in a slightly different spot every time I make one. There are also no bends tight enough to get a smooth transition into the turbo without lobster backing. With so many wedges of alloy to join there is a lot of welding involved. The funnel to the turbo is the most critical part when it comes to power. If the hole is too small you waste power, less airflow. If it is too big there is a step which slows the airflow. Every highflow is a different size so you need custom parts made on the lathe = time and expense. Besides all that, not many people willing to pay for the time consuming fitment process. (you had issues getting to the actuator, have you tried to get to the lower bolt on the intake?) I would be keen to see what he can come up with mate, and for what cost. I think I was doing it for a very reasonable price considering the time involved in making/fitting them. I know of one owner that paid 3 times what I was asking at another shop.

I just use Garnet, it strips anything back. You might want something less harsh for automotive. Don't use sand, it can kill you.

You getting 3 inch intake madness? He is going to hate you. lol.

Depends what you buy, Matic J, Nulon synthetic, something else that is Matic J compatible... You will need 8 litres.

PM'd. Exhaust sold.

Mine handles so well on the ragged edge, I dont think wobbling the back wheels will help, plus it puts too much stress on the subframe.

I don't have it jacked up yet, can you drop around and see it? The tip is nice and it isn't too loud. $300 for the full exhaust plus a bit extra for fitting if you need it done.

It was an engine design engineering application, not sure of the name but it calculates accurately if modelled correctly. We were hoping to run 11:1 on a 2.5L VQ, at any more than 15psi the cylinder pressure would spike. Power was made more easily with the compression at 8.8:1 with lower cylinder pressures. As we are designing it for track we decided lower compression was a must and turbo response less critical. Street applications you could argue the opposite I guess. Increasing the engine capacity was the easiest way to increase torque and power output without affecting cylinder pressure, but we are trying to keep it under 2.5L, and looking for 700hp+.

I totally agree Michael, there comes a point where you have no choice but to lower compression, high cylinder pressure will kill your engine very quickly. After modeling a few high comp builds with my tuner just last night, I can say that a 500kw engine must have low compression to survive, no matter what fuel or internals you run. I wish it weren't the case but cylinder pressure rises exponentially with power.

Is good still, hicas is shit. Ditch it, damn wobbly wheels.

Including the kit.

I have a spare, which parts do you need?

Same concept, without the thermostat, and they didn't fixing the air bleed issue. That is the pathfinder coolant mod, I imagine that assembly will hold air in the thermostat too. Mine also replaces the stock plastic bleed point with a billet alloy body and high pressure ball valve.

If you killed a new bearing in that short a time there was something wrong with the oil or water supply. Mine has been red hot countless times without issue, even with a beanie on the housing. The water cooling does a very good job keeping the rear bearing temps under control.

No wing, sorry. I just got under it and checked the exhaust, it is all one piece from the dump. Not easy to ship unless I cut it up so a local sale would be better. I don't think it is suitable for Sage222 as he already has my crazy 4 inch front pipe.

What temp did you have it set to? 18 degrees won't work, it just blows outside air. If the heater stops working you most probably have low coolant. It only takes a few cups to be missing for it to stop flowing through the heater circuit. Wait for it to cool down completely before checking it, then go through the Voodoo bleeding procedure, again and again.

FYP Craig. Thanks Jase for all the hard work on this.

+1 ^^ Crane or Block and tackle.