scotty nm35

That is a different system to the twin tip ones though, isn't it? Better to go legalis and put a nismo sticker on it.

It's a sign of detonation usually, not something you would hope for on e85. Hopefully it's just the coil packs starting to fail. I use heat range 7's, the 6's I ran melted the tip fairly quickly. I would run 8's if they were available for the VQ. Gap them to 1.1 if you can, most RB's don't like more than .8 though.

What is the gearbox code on the build plate?

Sounds like a great idea, Hopefully I can enter if the gearbox is repaired by then but I will be there anyway.

Any mods are out at the moment, it gives you 5 months to import a stagea halfcut though.

2.5 inch should do for over 300kw Chris. Go for it.

Lol, I was wondering the same thing. We probably need all the info from the other thread in here...

The ethanol sensor should be on the return line from the rail, as close to the last injector as possible. Otherwise you may have issues when you swap fuels and they haven't mixed properly. A small amount of pressure in the surge tank shouldn't give you dramas, how did you measure the sensor flow? I was worried it wouldn't flow enough...

New or second hand? I have one here on the wreck...

PM'd.

The pathfinder mod has a thermostat too, no idea why. Just one more thing to fail imo. The primary thermostat will control the entire flow anyway, I think it is just to warm the heater quicker or something. The pathfinder parts won't fit on our VQ25det's, and the price was prohibitive so I designed this instead.

I have seen at least two of those plastic parts fail completely, they are almost cardboard construction and if you try to remove the hoses it will collapse. The bung is easy to strip too. The holes in the back of the block are 15mm, so is the 10an hose internally. Here is the air chamber in the block, no amount of hill parking will bleed this air out...

I have been testing a few of my bypass kits out on my car, Cam's PM35 and a turbo V35, all showing good results. Hopefully Cam can add his logging data to the thread later. It consists essentially of a hose connecting the block to the coolant return line back to the radiator via the heater hose. I decided to fix the air bleeding issue at the same time, with a ball valve for easy filling and purging. I was hoping to make up some funnels to screw into the ball valve also but they aren't really required. The pushlock fittings aren't cheap and I still need to get quotes for the laser cut alloy block plates so I have no firm pricing as yet, but I need to gauge interest as I don't want to get many more than I need cut. From my testing this kit makes filling the coolant simple, just top up the radiator, start the car, then fill through the ball valve. One closed it seals the system but allows simple air bleeding as required. It allows more coolant to circulate through the radiator, keeping temps much more stable. I have done a few track days recently and although the temps rose it was much less than I would usually see, and the stock radiator I am using was coping well. (shame the gearbox didn't stay as cool.) On the dyno the coolant temps were more stable and when pushed it would rise, then drop back to normal straight away making the tuner more confident with multiple high power runs. I feel a larger radiator would still help keep the track temps under more control. Here are a few instal pics, the hose will require heat shielding from the exhaust as you can see.

It improves water flow by over 50%, cooling the block directly as the coolant only flows out of the heads usually. It purges air from the block as well as bleeding the entire system in one hit. No re-bleeding is necessary from my testing. It dumps the water into the heater lines hence doesn't affect the head coolant flow at all. I was going to start a thread on it as Cam has some data from his instal, I think it may be one of the must do mods if you plan to wind up the boost.

Lucky mate, I dropped mine in between the heatshield and the exhaust manifold, I had to leave it there. I now have a ball valve at the bleed point, it makes purging the air simple with a funnel screwed in.

Fitting a supercharger would cost much more than a S/H VQ25det conversion, plus dd's are nearly 12:1 compression, it would only work if you went e85 imo. Your gearbox will bolt straight up to a VQ25det so it is only the ecu you need to worry about.

As far as I know, I have never used the matic J, only the Nulon recently but every auto fluid on the shelf I have used was red. CVT would obviously be different. I doubt the fluid is causing the delay into reverse, more likely something blocked in the valve body.

Without reading the code you could chase that light for weeks. Drop down to a Nissan dealer and get them to read the code, then take it from there. Most parts will be available S/H, I have most of them here.

I can turn you up some, PM me if you are interested. I usually make them out of stainless...

One of their mechanics has an M35 Stagea so they should be fine to work on them. Their consult III will give you the codes required to find the faults.

It's red of course, just like any trans fluid. It would be nearly impossible to ID what is currently in your sump but it can go brown quickly. I wonder if the shift linkage needs adjustment, or the switch on the valve body... What state are you in?

It needs a little die grinding by the looks of it, as does the adapter Stao machines up imo. Can't the machinist at least round the corners a little Stao? Is it a CNC mill?

Well if you are happy to throw a set this way I can test them at 30psi in a few weeks.

Haha, ID's are bosch injectors, not the other way around. ID just flow test and match them apparently. There are a few Australian distributors for bosch injectors, (injectorsonline is one) if you want a local warranty. They will usually price match too. They can also supply 10.2mm adapters to suit the stock GTR rail, all you need to do is ditch the oem resistor pack afaik.

They all do it, it is normal. I wouldn't worry about it as Nissan designed it that way for a reason. Make sure if you are pulling the pump, replace the tank orings, they are not reusable as I found out.